alan tani @ fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Mitchell 300 poor mans baitrunner
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
October 30, 2020, 11:12:00 PM *
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Author Topic: Mitchell 300 poor mans baitrunner  (Read 1367 times)
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« Reply #15 on: March 17, 2020, 02:46:34 AM »

Excellent work Smiley I would love to be around in 20 yrs to see the kind of stuff being produced from this forum Grin
I would give the spool lip a thorough polishing/burnishing to remove any roughness.
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« Reply #16 on: March 17, 2020, 05:50:58 AM »

Great job!!
I love this! 
I have a TAZ 5 desktop machine at work.  Can I use this filament in that, or can it only be used in better machines?
I'd love to start playing with something like  this for my 9500SS!

Husband, Father, Fisherman
Chad Bussanich
CJ's Reel and Rig
Reel service, repair, and customizations
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« Reply #17 on: March 17, 2020, 11:53:03 AM »

great work, looks excellent.. I've thought about 3d printing for small parts before, have a carp-fishing acquaintance who is printing his own flycarpin reels..

For my area a 10 pound fish is huge and they never find themselves on the end of my line so it should be fine.

ya that's about my position too - who needs heavy-duty tackle anyway ? :-)

back in S. Africa we used to fish centerpin reels for carp, on the plus side they allowed for easy baitrunning, on the minus side, no drag at all. Ha.
When using a Mitchell 308 on rivers for carp, would just set the drag light, use finger control on the spool when striking and for those first few confused seconds while tightening the drag..

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« Reply #18 on: March 18, 2020, 09:37:29 AM »

I am not very familiar on the 3d printing aspect , I am not sure if the Onyx material can be used with other printers.

I was able to go fishing this past weekend and I did catch a couple fish using the baitrunner and a hair rig for carp.
I really like the way the spool looks and performs so far.  I think next I will start designing different cams to see what different drag strengths I can get from off to on.

I also bought some carbonex drag material to see if this will make for a smother drag. As of now I have stainless steel washers and then mylar for the drag washer. 
The mylar is just what I have available to me.

I also want to measure the drag strength that the spool makes.  From what I read on the internet it is measured with the line coming out of the pole at a 45 degree angle.  They also say that the drag should be set at 10 percent of the line rated breaking strength.
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« Reply #19 on: March 18, 2020, 11:48:42 AM »

Hey Chad,

There are reports of people printing with Onyx  on other brands of printers.  There will probably be a lot of trial and error getting the settings dialed in using a third party printer.  Onyx is pretty pricy at ~USD $300 for only 800 grams.  Lots carbon fiber filled filaments out there for less.

Printing nylon requires drying the filament in an oven (not the one you cook with) for several hours, and preferably some sort of sealed spool holder when printing.  The printer has to be able to handle higher temps, and if you want to use carbon fiber, the nozzle has to be hardened steel.   If you look up the specs on the printer/extruder, and the filament that you want to use, you will see if they are compatible.   Garrolite is usually recommended as a print bed surface. 

Sometimes pushing a printer to its limits can screw things up.  if you are sharing the printer with others, you might want to make sure that folks are ok with the experiment. As you probably know, FDM printers are pretty finicky, especially if you are running anything other than PLA through them.


jbas:    If you plan to use carbon fiber and want smoothness, make sure that you lubricate the drag washers with an appropriate grease with PTFE.  If your goal is smoothness, Rulon is a good material.  Delrin is almost as smooth, but melts at a lower temperature - probably fine for carp fishing.   Delrin is easy to work with.

If you search this site, there is lots of good information on drag to line test ratios.  10% is on the low side for a max drag setting (30% is more common), but lower settings can be preferable for specific fishing situations, or to stay within the reel's mechanical limitations.  I would suggest measuring straight off the reel and again with the rod fully loaded. That way you will know how much the drag will vary  when you change rod angle.

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