Okuma Clarion CLR-203L Levelwind broken

Started by Brandon G, April 22, 2020, 02:13:02 AM

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Brandon G

Hello,

I just got home and was really disappointed when I looked at my latest find.
This Okuma Clarion's levelwind doesn't move, making the line spool in the middle.
Everything else seems to be functional, but I can't tell.

Does anybody have any tips on this? Does anybody have a tutorial for this reel or some similar?
Tight Lines :)

alantani

first thought would be the white nylon idler gears.  they are supposed to break first if you get your fingers caught.  i does not look like the pawl cap is loose, but check to make sure the line leveler assembly itself is all tight.  then pop the left side plate and let's take a look!
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

akfish

I'll bet anything your reel needs a worm, a pawl, and perhaps the plastic idler gear. The corrosion on the line guide is a good indicator of what happened...
Taku Reel Repair
Juneau, Alaska
907.789.2448

alantani

true, but the middle is an odd place to get stuck if the pawl is bad.  usually a bad pawl gets stuck and one side or the other.   stuck in the middle could mean that someone's finger got caught, breaking the teeth of the idler gears, leaving the line guide stranded. 
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

Brandon G

Quote from: alantani on April 22, 2020, 02:31:09 AM
first thought would be the white nylon idler gears.  they are supposed to break first if you get your fingers caught.  i does not look like the pawl cap is loose, but check to make sure the line leveler assembly itself is all tight.  then pop the left side plate and let's take a look!

Everything was tight as far as I could tell. (Which isn't saying much)
Here is the side, the one with metal gear is how the cap came off, just laid it down and took the picture.

I do not have the wrench for the handle side unfortunately, if we needed to open that side too. :/
Do you know if that nut would be the same wrench as a Penn?

Tight Lines :)

Brandon G

Quote from: alantani on April 22, 2020, 02:55:55 AM
true, but the middle is an odd place to get stuck if the pawl is bad.  usually a bad pawl gets stuck and one side or the other.   stuck in the middle could mean that someone's finger got caught, breaking the teeth of the idler gears, leaving the line guide stranded. 

:o :o :o :o :o :o :o
It looks like that is exactly what happened.

*kneels* I'm not worthy! I'm not worthy!
Tight Lines :)

alantani

send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

alantani

send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

Brandon G

Quote from: alantani on April 22, 2020, 03:41:47 AM
can you turn the worm manually?

If that is the grooved bar thingy, yes, but since there is corrosion it moves the shaft it is on as well, but after back and forth it moves a little.

Quote from: alantani on April 22, 2020, 03:43:15 AM
the penn wrench should work. 

I should have one of those within a week or so! The kind mod Foakes is sending me one!
Tight Lines :)

Porthos

No Penn wrench required. From your pic, It looks like the factory nut is on, and it is dual structured for a "Penn" wrench on the lower half and just a crescent wrench on the upper half. Here is my CLR-203L:


You may be in a holding pattern for parts directly from Okuma. Their Service Center phone lines are unmanned due to CV-19; I tried getting a quote for parts for my somewhat restored, big auction site sourced CLR-203L via email instead and got nothing but crickets.

I'm suspecting that there is damage to the main side plate itself, because the reel binds once the star is tightened, even when in freespool. I've swapped the CLR-203L internals to my Okuma CV-15L main side plate, and there is no binding there.

Brandon G

Quote from: Porthos on April 22, 2020, 04:52:13 PM
No Penn wrench required. From your pic, It looks like the factory nut is on, and it is dual structured for a "Penn" wrench on the lower half and just a crescent wrench on the upper half. Here is my CLR-203L:


You may be in a holding pattern for parts directly from Okuma. Their Service Center phone lines are unmanned due to CV-19; I tried getting a quote for parts for my somewhat restored, big auction site sourced CLR-203L via email instead and got nothing but crickets.

I'm suspecting that there is damage to the main side plate itself, because the reel binds once the star is tightened, even when in freespool. I've swapped the CLR-203L internals to my Okuma CV-15L main side plate, and there is no binding there.

Oh snap! I cant believe i didnt see that!
Ooo when I get home that SOB is coming apart! Haha
I ordered the idler gear, currently everything moves but it is rough and tough... obviously due to the gear being eating away but the levelwind moves.
When i took the left side off i undid the worm shaft and guide bar and cleaned em up with fine steel wool.

Im kind of nervous to take the other side off, because i havent found a tutorial, but ill get over it in a few quick twists of the wrist... haha
Tight Lines :)

Porthos


Brandon G

Quote from: Porthos on April 22, 2020, 10:14:22 PM
The handle side of the Cedros is 80-90% similar:

https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=7579.0

Just went through that tutorial, you rock! Well, I looked through it, I'm still at work!

I appreciate that link!
Tight Lines :)

Brandon G

Well, the screw that holds the main handle nut in place is stripping and i cant get it to budge even after letting it sit with wd40 like stuff, forget what its called but it frees stuck bolts and nuts.

Well lets hope the new part does the trick and I can get by without opening the handle side.... ever. :,(
Tight Lines :)

Porthos

At least 2 of the drag washers and the under gear washer are not CF...not opening leaves reel in less than optimal config.

You could try filing off the the damaged screw top, use a very flat needle file, make a new slot for a flat head screw driver, and give that a try.

The next option is to file the screw off as close to the handle as possible so that the base of the nut will clear the screw stub that is left. Once the handle is off, the stub can be then extracted so that the handle can be reused with a new nut retention screw.