“00” - “01” - “02” Series of Quick Reels

Started by foakes, August 18, 2021, 04:39:19 PM

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foakes

There is not a lot of information out there on these —

Starting with the Champion Series —

1000 - 1400 - 2000 - 3000 - 4000 - 5000

1001 - 1401 - 2001 - 3001 - 4001 - 5001 (1:4 High Speed) - 5001 (1:2.5 Low Speed)

1202 - 2002 - 3002

These 16 reels with various modern features — skirted spools, precision cut bronze & SS worm drives, larger drags top & under, spring-loaded folding handles, adjustable and numbered spool winding points, manual bail closing options, and much more.

Aircraft grade aluminum construction.  These reels were German engineered, developed, and built to exact tolerances — using the best materials available for longevity and performance above their design.

These reels were developed and tested by fishing experts around the globe — in severe conditions ranging from the Arctic to the Tropics.

This little 6 page fold-out — has a wealth of information that is hard to find anywhere else.

These (3) series of reels — were the best reels ever produced by D-A-M Quick in Germany, prior to lessening their quality and subsequently moving production to Asia — after the inevitable ownership changes.

I have a group of eight that I am servicing for a client — and the impressive quality of these reels is a hidden gem for many anglers that have no idea how good this group of (16) reels are.

These were produced for about 10 years — starting in the late 70's — up to the late 80's.

Best, Fred

The Official, Un-Authorized Service and Restoration Center for quality vintage spinning reels.

D-A-M Quick, Penn, Mitchell, and ABU/Zebco Cardinals

--------

The first rule of fishing is to fish where the fish are. The second rule of fishing is to never forget the first rule.

"Enjoy the little things in Life — For someday, you may look back — and realize that they were the big things"
                                                     Fred O.

PacRat

Your not kidding when you say there's not a lot of information out there. I have a 1202 question. My bail popped ot on the side with the round black 'button' or bushing that the hook of the bail wire pivots in (maybe what DAM calls a flange?). When I look inside the hole I can see what looks like possibly a press-in insert that is loose in there.


So my questions are:

Is my assumption correct? Is this a hard insert that was pressed into the black aluminum piece from the back side of the black button shaped piece (flange?) to prevent wear?

How would I remove the button shaped part for repair? This is also the part that holds the bite indicator in place. The schematics seem to depict the larger reel (3002) that attach this part with a screw. On the 1202 and 2002 this part is round and smooth with no visible fastener (there's a stud or bolt that can be seen on the back side of the rotor pillar but it is eccentric to the round part. I think this is either pressed in or it works like a puzzle for disassembly. I assume it comes off to change the bite indicator. I figure it's much safer to ask before boogering up some rare parts.

Thanks in advance.

happyhooker

Thanks, Fred, for posting that booklet contents.  If I am ever lucky enough to get a reel or two out of this series, I'll consider it a glorious day.

Frank

foakes

#3
Quote from: PacRat on September 30, 2021, 07:12:55 PM
Your not kidding when you say there's not a lot of information out there. I have a 1202 question. My bail popped ot on the side with the round black 'button' or bushing that the hook of the bail wire pivots in (maybe what DAM calls a flange?). When I look inside the hole I can see what looks like possibly a press-in insert that is loose in there.


So my questions are:

Is my assumption correct? Is this a hard insert that was pressed into the black aluminum piece from the back side of the black button shaped piece (flange?) to prevent wear?

How would I remove the button shaped part for repair? This is also the part that holds the bite indicator in place. The schematics seem to depict the larger reel (3002) that attach this part with a screw. On the 1202 and 2002 this part is round and smooth with no visible fastener (there's a stud or bolt that can be seen on the back side of the rotor pillar but it is eccentric to the round part. I think this is either pressed in or it works like a puzzle for disassembly. I assume it comes off to change the bite indicator. I figure it's much safer to ask before boogering up some rare parts.

Thanks in advance.

The bail wire has a slight hook on that end, Mike —

You do not need to take the black metal bail anchor button off.

Just remove the other side of the bail from the  angle lever Mount — insert the "hooked" end into the metal hole — then reattach the bail assembly to the trip lever.

If you need to take off the black metal bail anchor button — then there are (2) methods.  Carefully punch out the tight fitting friction nub you see from the inside of the rotor — the button and the bite indicator will come loose.

Or, pry it up from the outside using a dull knife.

Sometimes these are also adhesive-glued in place.

You can glue it back, or just leave the glue off — the natural spring tension of the bail will hold it in place.

Here is what the whole affair looks like when disassembled.

Best, Fred
The Official, Un-Authorized Service and Restoration Center for quality vintage spinning reels.

D-A-M Quick, Penn, Mitchell, and ABU/Zebco Cardinals

--------

The first rule of fishing is to fish where the fish are. The second rule of fishing is to never forget the first rule.

"Enjoy the little things in Life — For someday, you may look back — and realize that they were the big things"
                                                     Fred O.

PacRat

#4
Perfect Fred! Thank you so much. Is the beige stuff adhesive? I have a loose part in there that I'm assuming is a press-in insert as it has a 'coin edge' around the OD. It's approximately 1/4", possibly less and the hole in the center is the right size for the bail wire. I think this is why the hook popped out...plus I can see some wear on the black part. So the insert must be what prevents the black flange from wearing out. This is your photo Fred and I annotated the piece that is loose inside.


Now that I see how it goes together I can take it apart without damaging it. I'll press and glue the insert with JB weld, then press the flange back in place. I'll take detail photos of the flange and insert while it's apart and post them here.

Mike

-

foakes

Yes, nearly any type of adhesive will secure it, Mike —

Your doing the job the right way.

Sorry to get back to you so late today.  We have had guests all day.

Best, Fred
The Official, Un-Authorized Service and Restoration Center for quality vintage spinning reels.

D-A-M Quick, Penn, Mitchell, and ABU/Zebco Cardinals

--------

The first rule of fishing is to fish where the fish are. The second rule of fishing is to never forget the first rule.

"Enjoy the little things in Life — For someday, you may look back — and realize that they were the big things"
                                                     Fred O.

PacRat

#6
Fred, you saved the bacon again.
Here are two photos of the flange and the loose insert. In the photos the inset isn't oriented properly but is flipped opposite of the direction it goes into the flange. I just wanted to show some detail of how they look when they're apart. I bet this doesn't happen very often.




I tapped it back in with a brass punch and decided it is seated pretty well. If the insert gets loose again I will put a little ring of JB Weld around the edge of the insert. Here's the flange with the insert tapped back in.




The flange was a fairly tight fit (almost snapped into place)on the rotor pillar so I'm not gluing it for now. This reel is a little tired and needs some TLC. If the flange seems loose while I'm working on it I'll glue it in with some tacky glue or something removable should I ever need to fix the insert again.

Fred, the crank arm is a little tweaked. I think I'm going to strip it and attempt to tweak it back into shape in a vise. I know metal will fatigue with repeated bending but the arm is really twisted and it makes the knob all wonky. Would you advise against this...or what do I have to lose? How scarce are these cranks?

oldmanjoe

 :)     Ok  I`ll  bite , What is a bite indicator on the flange ?     My bite indicator is my index finger  .
Grandpa`s words of wisdom......Joey that thing between your shoulders is not a hat rack.....    use it.....
A mind is like a parachute, it only work`s  when it is open.......
The power of Observation   , It`s all about the Details ..
 Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.   Alto Mare

foakes

I believe that you might look for years and likely never find the correct handle, Mike...

Except in our Community Inventory.

Let me know which crank you need — and I'll send it out.

If it is tweaked slightly — you might get lucky in re-aligning it — but the new one is the way to go.

N/C.

Best, Fred
The Official, Un-Authorized Service and Restoration Center for quality vintage spinning reels.

D-A-M Quick, Penn, Mitchell, and ABU/Zebco Cardinals

--------

The first rule of fishing is to fish where the fish are. The second rule of fishing is to never forget the first rule.

"Enjoy the little things in Life — For someday, you may look back — and realize that they were the big things"
                                                     Fred O.

PacRat

Quote from: oldmanjoe on October 01, 2021, 01:59:02 PM
:)     Ok  I`ll  bite , What is a bite indicator on the flange ?     My bite indicator is my index finger  .

The 'Bite Indicator' is that piece of soft gold plastic sandwiched between the flange and rotor pillar. The concept is that you pinch your line in there and it holds it loosely so that you can soak bait with your bail open. The fish can run with it with just a tug but the current won't.


sandbar

Fred
Are the Champion Series reels considered salt water reels?
I'll be doing some surf fishing in the near future and would love to
use one.

foakes

Right, Steve —

These DQ Champion reels are all metal, painted with a tough finish, aluminum body, rotor, and sideplate — plus all SS or Bronze moving parts inside the reel and also outside.

Best, Fred
The Official, Un-Authorized Service and Restoration Center for quality vintage spinning reels.

D-A-M Quick, Penn, Mitchell, and ABU/Zebco Cardinals

--------

The first rule of fishing is to fish where the fish are. The second rule of fishing is to never forget the first rule.

"Enjoy the little things in Life — For someday, you may look back — and realize that they were the big things"
                                                     Fred O.

Milan S

Quote from: PacRat on October 01, 2021, 04:35:45 PM
Quote from: oldmanjoe on October 01, 2021, 01:59:02 PM
:)     Ok  I`ll  bite , What is a bite indicator on the flange ?     My bite indicator is my index finger  .

The 'Bite Indicator' is that piece of soft gold plastic sandwiched between the flange and rotor pillar. The concept is that you pinch your line in there and it holds it loosely so that you can soak bait with your bail open. The fish can run with it with just a tug but the current won't.



Can any demonstration of how to use this part?  :)

foakes

Quote from: Milan S on October 04, 2021, 06:25:55 AM
Quote from: PacRat on October 01, 2021, 04:35:45 PM
Quote from: oldmanjoe on October 01, 2021, 01:59:02 PM
:)     Ok  I`ll  bite , What is a bite indicator on the flange ?     My bite indicator is my index finger  .

The 'Bite Indicator' is that piece of soft gold plastic sandwiched between the flange and rotor pillar. The concept is that you pinch your line in there and it holds it loosely so that you can soak bait with your bail open. The fish can run with it with just a tug but the current won't.



Can any demonstration of how to use this part?  :)

More fish are lost, when fishing bait — with a closed bail — because a wary fish feels the resistance.

To eliminate this when bait fishing — the rod tip should be closer to level — and the bail should be left open.

However, a way to hold the line and to also monitor a light bite — is needed.

For decades — the man who taught me how to really fish would do this:  Elmo would keep the bail open, set the rod down in a near level position — then leave the line loose between the spool and the first eye of the rod.  He would then take a small loop of the line and put a penny on it.  When the line came out from under the penny — that was the first indication of a wary fish.

This bite indicator does the same thing — just slip the line between the flexible plastic flange and the rotor bail mount — to hold the line.

This also works very well in windy conditions since there is less line to catch the wind — the rod tip is closer to the water.

Best, Fred
The Official, Un-Authorized Service and Restoration Center for quality vintage spinning reels.

D-A-M Quick, Penn, Mitchell, and ABU/Zebco Cardinals

--------

The first rule of fishing is to fish where the fish are. The second rule of fishing is to never forget the first rule.

"Enjoy the little things in Life — For someday, you may look back — and realize that they were the big things"
                                                     Fred O.

sandbar

Fred
20 to 40 Bull Reds.
Which Champion reel should I use?
Thank You
-Steve