Starting Out with DAM

[2Boston]

Good morning members. I'm new to DQ reels. I find them well built. I fish a good bit for Panfish and Pickerel. Bass and Channel Cats are my occasional by-catch. I prefer to use old equipment, i.e. 1950's and 1960's stuff. I Clean and replace parts in reels and re-wrap rods as necessary to enjoy my fishing. I used to say "hell no I'm not a collector", but we all know how that goes.
My primary collection consists of Johnson, Abumatics, Zebco, Mitchell, Penn and now DQ. I was recommended to this site by a fellow at fishingtalks. He said Fred would set me right up. Well that may or may not be the case as it may turn out that I'm un-helpable.
I have 3 DQ reels. Two are Finessa and one is a 247. The 247 is sporting a broken, partial spool and does not spin. The two finessa are fine and have been thought cleaned and re-assembled. They are big. One of the two needs bail parts.
Would someone here be able to tell me what models these are?  
Don in PA, USA

[thorhammer]

Fred is traveling but will be along directly.

[2Boston]

Thanks. I hope you all answer.

[foakes]

Good Morning, Don —

The (2) Finessas appear to be 285's from the mid to late 50's. These were the precursors to the 330 reels introduced in the 60's.  Starting with the 280 Finessas — and going up through the 285's — there were (4) variations of these reels — although many (most) parts will interchange.  These are good mid-size reels for a wide variety of fish.  Bronze and steel worm-drive — solidly built — well worth restoring and fishing.

The 247 was manufactured in 1968 — similar to the 248 — which is part of a more economical series of DAM Quicks.

This series includes the very small 218, 228, 238, 247, and 248.  No bearing — brass sleeved instead — gears and drive train not as robust as the Finessas and other Dam Quicks.  But a solid reel that is also well worth restoring.

I have any parts that would be needed for all of these reels.

Each would need a full disassembly, evacuation of all old, dried up grease — full cleaning — burnishing and polishing of all parts — inspection of any parts that might need improvement or replacement — reassembly using modern synthetic grease and oil — micro tuned — and tested for all proper functions.

Let us know, as we are all glad to help with your projects as you go forward.

Best, Fred

[2Boston]

I really like the finessa and plan to fish them. They've been completely dis-assembled and carefully cleaned and re-assembled. I did notice that the one needs a new bail spring as the old one is broken in half. I used blue Penn Reel Grease internally and 3-in-one on the spring/bail. These are fantastically built....a little akin to cardinals that I've seen.

If I took the 247 apart and played it all out you thing you'd be able to sell me replacement parts? 247 is the size reel I'm after.

I'm new to this brand and am quite impressed. I also fish some Mitchells , Langley and Early Zebco Spinflo but these appear even stronger built.

I hope to learn about them over time.

[foakes]

Yes, Don —

All parts are available.

One of the reel brands that I specialize in is DQ.  Possibly have 10 times more parts than any other shop in the world for the DQ's between 1950 to 1990.

Best, Fred

[oldmanjoe]

  Welcome to the site !!   I see you like bulletproof reels ...    Have a look around at the older posts  , I think a 220 or a 110 would put a gleam in your eye .

[philaroman]

...247 is the size reel I'm after.

I'm new to this brand and am quite impressed...

  Welcome to the site !!   I see you like bulletproof reels ...    Have a look around at the older posts  , I think a 220 or a 110 would put a gleam in your eye .

ditto...  the whole point is the bronze/steel worm-drive
put the restorations on the backburner & let Fred guide you through sellection among:
220/220n VS. 110/110n VS. many later 00/01/02 models in 2000 & 1400 size...  maybe 1200, too

[2Boston]

Thanks for the welcome and yes I will get guidance from Fred as he came most highly recommended. I don't restore reels but merely collect reels specifically for use. Each reel, of any brand, gets carefully disassembled and cleaned. Broken parts are replaced and then the reel is reassembled. Some I've sold, some I've rehomed for others. But that is simply mechanical stuff and not what I call restoration.  That worm drive is soooo nice.

My preference is to have old, old, old....as old as I can keep running. I grew up Poor in the 60's in a happy Farm Family and I was the only one that fished. Mom bought me a Zebco 202 from the toy store in town and I watched friends go off with Penns and Mitchells and so forth. So now in my post child raising years am going back to what I missed. I really like Mitchell 304 and 408. I have and I fish all the early overbuilt Johnsons and Zebco's, manor which are older than me and I was born in 58. I fish Late Langley and early Zebco SpinFlo. Then someone introduced me to DQ and I'm pretty darn impressed. Some have said they're akin to Cardinals but I wouldn't know yet.
Point is the DQ finessa is too big for my normal work in the panfish and Pickerel lakes locally. As time passes I'll be reading up on this line of reels and will try to get a grasp the lineage and model numbers. I'm sure you folks will chuckle at immature questions but will help me learn the ropes.

[Midway Tommy]

The 265 Microlite, 110 or 110N would be a good size reel for what you're after. Personally, I'd choose the Microlite over the 110 or 110N but they're all adequate ULs. The 1000 & 1001 are newer skirted spool versions of the earlier models I mentioned.

[happyhooker]

Greetings, Don, from Minnesota.

Please, do not hesitate to ask ANY questions that come to mind.  There are folks on this site with all levels of expertise on many different topics, and you might be surprised to see that some, with what they themselves would admit are minimal levels of experience, have extremely interesting queries and offer valuable tidbits of knowledge.

Frank

[Riy2018]

Good Day,
is there any way to fix chipped paint on DAM Quick reels?
I have 330 models but paint chipped ,
Thank you

[foakes]

I typically take them completely apart — clean every part really well — then use flat black wrinkle paint to restore them.

The body, rotor, sideplate, and badge need to be heated to about 200 degrees after cleaning and a quick sanding job — not removing the paint — just roughing it up and sanding down any flaky edges for good adherence — then spray the (4) parts — set the curing oven at 200 degrees — let them cook for about 20 minutes — turn off the oven — let the parts cool — and they are ready to reassemble.  And they look like brand new.  Can't tell the difference if done properly.

Got to remove the fish emblem, and also tape the exposed opening areas, plus insert silicone plugs in the crank bushing, and any other places that the paint does not need to be.

Emblem just glues back on.

Best, Fred

[Riy2018]

I typically take them completely apart — clean every part really well — then use flat black wrinkle paint to restore them.

The body, rotor, sideplate, and badge need to be heated to about 200 degrees after cleaning and a quick sanding job — not removing the paint — just roughing it up and sanding down any flaky edges for good adherence — then spray the (4) parts — set the curing oven at 200 degrees — let them cook for about 20 minutes — turn off the oven — let the parts cool — and they are ready to reassemble.  And they look like brand new.  Can't tell the difference if done properly.

Got to remove the fish emblem, and also tape the exposed opening areas, plus insert silicone plugs in the crank bushing, and any other places that the paint does not need to be.

Emblem just glues back on.

Best, Fred

oh no. this is too complicated for medical professional 
I will find some one to do it.
Thank you

[2Boston]

I can understand not thinking you can do it yourself but once you get into it and remember to pass it by experienced folk its a breeze.