alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial saltiga 30t
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
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Author Topic: saltiga 30t  (Read 47192 times)
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alantani
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« on: December 07, 2008, 09:20:08 AM »

ahhh, daiwa......

it seems like the argument is always penn versus shimano.  daiwa makes a great line of reels.  i think the saltiga is perhaps one of the finest small baitcasters made.  first, pull the schematics.

http://mikesreelrepair.com/schematics/schematic.php?url=Daiwa/Daiwa%20Saltiga%2030T,%2040,%2050.pdf

here is my personal favorite.  it's the 30T.   well balanced, very powerful, it's small size makes casting a small sardine a piece of cake.  i borrowed one of these on my one an only 10 day trips a couple of years ago and absolutely fell in love with the reel.  everything about this reel says quality!



um, but this one had a small oops!  a friend of mine had this loaded with spectra and was fishing for salmon dragging a 2.5 pound lead ball on a sinker release.  he heard a pop, saw the spool displaced laterally and retired the reel for the day.  then he brought it to me. 







first, let's pull all of the left side plate screws (key #21) and remove the left side plate assembly (key #6).



the spool (ouch!) comes out cleanly, leaving you with three pieces.





the right spool bearing (key #3) needs to be cleaned first, so let's remove the rubber water shield (key #4), pull out the bearing, remove the bearing shields, clean the bearing and lube it up.  for a full discussion on bearings, do a search under key word "bearings" and author name "alantani".







the left side plate bearing (key #10) is buried pretty deep.  i decided just to lube it up without pulling the shields.  it should be fine. 



ok, back together it goes.  don't forget to add a bead of grease to all the screw holes.  now, if all you want to do is lube, clean or replace the bearings, then this is as far as you need to go. 



want to replace the drag washers?  ok, onward!  remove the handle nut screw (key #68), the handle nut (key #67) and the handle assembly (key #'s 61-66).







remove the star drag (key #59) and spacing sleeve B (key #60), the click spring assembly (key #'s 57 and 58), the two drag spring washers (key #56) and bearing washer D (key #55).





ok, the handle and star are off.  now for the right side plate.  remove all of the right side plate screws (key #53).



wiggle the right side plate assembly (key #41, et.al.) and it should come straight up and off. 



here's a little trick.  the metal drag washers are often a little tough to remove.  when you bolt down the handle nut, the spacing sleeve B (key #60) presses down on the shoulder of the drive shaft (key#24).  the shoulder is slightly deformed.  a couple of gentle strokes of a flat file will remove this "burr" and the gear and drag stack will come off easily.  easy, not too much.



the gear cluster now comes off easily, revealing a carbon fiber drag washer installed several years ago by your's truly.  we're going to remove these old penn drag washers, clean up all the metal washers and install a new set of carbontex drag washers.





not really much to this reel.  it's actually very simple.   



now for a new set of carbontex drag washers. 



i'm going to slap a nice, thick juicy coat of drag grease on these washers because i know that really annoys those people that still do not belive in drag grease!



and then the drag stack goes back together.  remember to alternate the metal washers; keyed, eared, keyed, eared, keyed.  also add bearing washer D (key #55) and then spacing sleeve A (key #40).  bearing washer D goes under the spacing sleeve.  this is contrary to the schematics but it makes the installation easier. 



i've got a ratty old toothbrush that i'm going to use to brush a light coat of grease all through the inside of the side plate.  take a moment to squirt a little corrosion x into the right side plate bearing (key #43) as well.



the drive shaft bearing (key #54) is particularly at risk for corrosion.  pop out the bearing, remove the shields, pack the bearing with grease, replace the bearing and install it back into the side plate. 







add a bead of grease to all the screw holes.



if you did not monkey with the clutch lever (key #48) or the yoke plate (key #28), the right side plate should snap right back into place. 



install bearing washer D (key #55), a pair of drag spring washers (key # 56) cupped "( )", and the click leaf spring assembly (key #'s 57 and 58). 



grease up the drive shaft (key #24).  grease all the little crevasses on the star (key #59) and install it.



grease spacing sleeve B (key #60) and install it. 



add a little grease to the handle arm (key #61) around the drive shaft, install the handle nut (key #67) and screw (key #68).





done!  now we just have to see if daiwa will send us a new spool.  this old spool never should have failed and i'm hoping daiwa will extent the warranty and send us a new one for free!


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« Reply #1 on: April 01, 2009, 09:08:40 AM »

Quote
I have a Saltiga 50 that I want looked at and fixed up with better drag. I figure that you get many requests to work on reels and if you are not interested I understand. If you are interested please reply back.  Thanks

i'd be happy to take a look at it.  here's the saltiga post to give you an idea of what gets done.  http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=40.0  you have a handle upgrade option.  i'd recommend the 4/0 if you are interested.  http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=158.0  and here's the info on shipping and a few other items.  http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=277.0  please note a particular issue with the saltiga that i cannot guarantee for you.  http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=173.0  if the frame cracks, you will have to live with it or replace at cost, and cost is $200.  it happened only once to me, and i will be VERY careful, but it is not something i can cover for you if it happens again.  a friend of mine, who is VERY skilled, broke two in a row and is probably 2 for 20.  i am only 1 for 20.  thanks!  alan
« Last Edit: October 03, 2011, 07:48:10 AM by alantani » Logged

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« Reply #2 on: October 03, 2011, 07:29:48 AM »

I just finished cleaning two of these reels that were used for 2 years on the charter boat I ocasionaly work on and I will have to say they are a well built reel and easy to work on.
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Hi, my name is Lee and I have a fishing gear problem.
A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn in no other way.
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« Reply #3 on: February 21, 2012, 02:07:45 AM »

I have been unable to purchase a spare Anti Reverse Bearing for a Saltiga30 as it is part of the Right Side Plate assembly costing $160 and is not sold separately in the UK.  The inner part of the bearing item 42 is shown on the schematics (just above the drag stack) as a separate item although the outer part is obviously contained within the Right Side Plate item 41. The parts list is confusing as there is another item 42 handle,listed!
Anyone here replaced this A/R Bearing or know where it can be obtained?

http://schematics.planetseafishing.com/downloads/daiwa/multipliers/saltiga-series/saltiga-30t.pdf
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« Reply #4 on: February 21, 2012, 05:20:31 PM »

you'll have to measure it and find a match here.  http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-types/one-way-bearings
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« Reply #5 on: February 21, 2012, 05:37:05 PM »

Thank's Alan,will check it out.
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LTM
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« Reply #6 on: June 13, 2012, 07:25:25 AM »

Alan,

Do you recall what the part numbers are for the HT-100 drags for this reel?  I cant seem to find them on the HT-100 size chart.

Thanx,

Leo
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« Reply #7 on: June 13, 2012, 07:46:12 AM »

this is one situation where carbontex really is the best option.  the penn ht-100's are too thick.
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« Reply #8 on: June 18, 2012, 06:40:23 PM »

Hi all,

Jus want to have some info on some of these reels.
whats the difference between saltiga Z30 n 30T?

thank u in advance

yai
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broadway
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« Reply #9 on: June 18, 2012, 06:56:57 PM »

Yai,
     I don't know all the differences, but the one that sticks out at me the most is the auto-engaging (by the turn of the handle) from free spool that the Z-series has.  To me that's a nice idea when you're live lining a striper Wink  I've been looking for a used Z20L for a decent price for a while, but have only found one for $400 in near mint, so far  Cry
Go for the "Z" if ya got the dough,
Dom
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« Reply #10 on: June 25, 2012, 10:17:43 PM »

Hey Dom,

Yeah i managed to get a steal from a forum for a z30L at sgd450.
i do have a JM PE7, Accu bx500n as well so the newly acquired reel will be for my pe2-4 setup mainly for jigging.....

tq for the advice

yai
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broadway
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« Reply #11 on: June 26, 2012, 04:41:15 PM »

Glad to see you got the Z series... now I'm jealous Grin
Out of curiosity... whatcha fishing for?
Hope you enjoy it bro,
Dom
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Yai
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« Reply #12 on: July 01, 2012, 06:30:12 PM »

Tks Dom, bet u have few gd reels urself. Lols!!

Mainly targetting at macks, GTs when I get to Malaysian n Indonesian waters.
Or AJs should i go to oil rigs....
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« Reply #13 on: July 01, 2012, 07:46:01 PM »

Yai,
      Sounds like fun, and with that Saltiga your gonna have a blast!
Best of luck,
Dom
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« Reply #14 on: July 02, 2012, 03:56:48 PM »

Tq Dom.....

likewise to u too.

cheers,
yai
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