alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial saltiga 30t
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
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Author Topic: saltiga 30t  (Read 49865 times)
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beandip
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« Reply #15 on: July 11, 2012, 01:00:15 PM »

I have a question regarding the clicker.

I have a few of the 30T's and i'm having an issue with the clicker slipping.

If i put it into the "non-clicker" mode, it will slip down into the "clicker" mode.

Is there an easy fix for this?
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Irish Jigger
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« Reply #16 on: July 11, 2012, 02:48:08 PM »

Super glue.
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alantani
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« Reply #17 on: July 11, 2012, 03:42:45 PM »

Super glue.

thanks for my chuckle for the day!

the spring is probably loose.  you will have to pull it out, squeeze it together, then put it back it and see how well it holds.  they are finnicky to say the least. 

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ducati-748
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« Reply #18 on: July 11, 2012, 08:30:54 PM »

Hi Alan,

I have a problem for my Saltiga 30T, not serious but just feel like to know if this happened also to some others.

It happened since the first day I bought this reel,  after I tight the drag and try to release it, the drag will become loose only when I do one or half cranking.  It will also happen if I tight the drag from loose (The drag will act tighter only after one of half cranking).   After first cranking the drag is not bad still smooth. Actually this problem is getting better after I have used this reel for three seasons.

I also have two Saltist 30t, I do not have this kind problem.  I can get the drag set up as I like immediately and do not have to wait it effect after cranking.

Do you see this kind problem before?

Thanks,

Jason
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Irish Jigger
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« Reply #19 on: July 12, 2012, 03:42:50 PM »

I was serious about using super glue to silence the darn thing  Wink  I don't have a need for a clicker and bought a Saltiga 30 purely because it does'nt  have one. I find them annoying to say the least.
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alantani
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« Reply #20 on: July 13, 2012, 06:18:59 PM »

Hi Alan, I have a problem for my Saltiga 30T, not serious but just feel like to know if this happened also to some others.  It happened since the first day I bought this reel,  after I tight the drag and try to release it, the drag will become loose only when I do one or half cranking.  It will also happen if I tight the drag from loose (The drag will act tighter only after one of half cranking).   After first cranking the drag is not bad still smooth. Actually this problem is getting better after I have used this reel for three seasons.  I also have two Saltist 30t, I do not have this kind problem.  I can get the drag set up as I like immediately and do not have to wait it effect after cranking.  Do you see this kind problem before?  Thanks, Jason 

it usually happend when the metal drag washers are out of order the the slotted washer is on top.  otherwise, no.....
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ducati-748
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« Reply #21 on: July 13, 2012, 09:12:21 PM »


Alan,

Thanks.  So if I want to fix this problem I need to replace a new metal washer ?

Or it can be improved if I send it for a service?


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alantani
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« Reply #22 on: July 14, 2012, 10:03:05 PM »

i would be curious to take a look, but follow the tutorial and the schematics first.  let's see if there is a problem that can be fixed.
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bb2fish
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« Reply #23 on: March 16, 2013, 01:30:31 PM »

I am trying to recover a sad Saltiga 30T.  The freespool lever would not move.

I removed the handle side case and it appears the pinion gear is seized to the spool shaft.  There is a lot of corrosion.  Any ideas on how to pry that pinion off the spool shaft?


I also broke a bit driver trying to get into the case screws, so a suggestion there would help - still can't get the clicker side removed.   Where can i get a good sturdy driver bit that is narrow to fit in these screws recessed to the body?


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johndtuttle
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« Reply #24 on: March 16, 2013, 03:04:38 PM »

I am trying to recover a sad Saltiga 30T.  The freespool lever would not move.

I removed the handle side case and it appears the pinion gear is seized to the spool shaft.  There is a lot of corrosion.  Any ideas on how to pry that pinion off the spool shaft?


I also broke a bit driver trying to get into the case screws, so a suggestion there would help - still can't get the clicker side removed.   Where can i get a good sturdy driver bit that is narrow to fit in these screws recessed to the body?



First thing to do is to soak the parts in your favorite rust remover ie Corrosion-X/Liquid Wrench/WD-40 etc. At least overnight if you have the time.

Some light taps can break up the corrosion crusts and then after that, you have to try some of the liquid nitrogen sprays to get the screw/spindle to shrink and they should come off.

best
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DSloan
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« Reply #25 on: December 12, 2013, 07:17:42 PM »

Hi, Im new to the site, seen your posts and found a lot of great info o this site, which lead me to join. Great stuff. Im trying to grease my Saltiga 30, and free it up as it began to randomly freeze/lock up from time to time. When I opened it up, I found that the handle post itself is rather wobbly. It seems there is no way to tighten it? Is that normal, for it to be wobbly? The threaded handle post itself. Thanks
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broadway
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Broadway Dom, New York City


« Reply #26 on: December 12, 2013, 08:21:21 PM »

bb,
   Here's what I'd do… Remove the CF drag washers, pick up a bottle of salt away (using a 50/50 mix with water) dunk the entire reel overnight in it, and see how it is the next day.  If nothing else I can guarantee the reel will be salt free in and out.  If you can't get things moving then I'd go with a CLR bath (not overnight-just an hour or so at a time.  If no movement by then go with Kroil in every crevice.  If nothing by then I'd go with two screwdrivers under the pinion to lift simultaneously or little on each side at a time (use 2 people if you can.)  If nothing by then go with the nitrogen if you an get your hands on it.  I haven't had to mess with it because I am too impatient.  I tried what I've written and if nothing by then I go nuts and wind up bending/breaking something… hopefully the pinion not the spindle Wink
As for the side plate screws I just use a regular flat head that fits perfect with a wide rubber band over the tip to prevent slippage.  Someone here recommended it to me a while back and use it regularly now… works like a charm.
Remember to Tani-ize it before it hits the water next time… much of that corrosion could have been prevented with it.
Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.
Dom
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Fish-aholic
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« Reply #27 on: December 13, 2013, 07:19:48 AM »

Regarding the excessive 'wobble' you're experiencing with the drive shaft; is it noticeable when the right side plate has been removed? The drive shaft is supported by the Anti Reverse Bearing (ARB) and it's sleeve. It's also supported by the drive shaft bearing found directly above the ARB. Once the right side plate has been removed, naturally there will be excessive 'wobble'. Nothing to worry about.

Tani-ize your reel as suggested by Dom, and it will greatly help for the reels next service (easily dismantled like an off the shelf reel).

Fish' 

 
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alantani
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« Reply #28 on: April 01, 2014, 03:44:29 PM »

jim's saltiga 50 just blew up.  same problem. 







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Dr. Jekyll - AKA MeL B
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« Reply #29 on: April 01, 2014, 03:50:31 PM »

unbelievable!!!! maybe he's using too much drag(not within specs)... Huh? Huh? Huh?
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