alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial penn 209
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
June 21, 2021, 06:42:46 PM *
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Author Topic: penn 209  (Read 244956 times)
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Alto Mare
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« Reply #135 on: September 22, 2017, 10:09:38 AM »

Good job Jack, you won't know unless you try.
Your next one should be easier.

Best,

Sal
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Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.
Bill B (Tarfu)
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« Reply #136 on: September 23, 2017, 01:27:36 AM »

WoooHooo jack  Cheesy  Glad you gave it a shot...Now time to formally welcome you to the Darkside  Grin  No turning back now brother we hooked anther one   Roll Eyes  Bill
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oc1
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« Reply #137 on: September 23, 2017, 08:53:25 AM »

Good going.  Did you figure out what was wrong with it?
-steve
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streetglider
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« Reply #138 on: September 28, 2017, 10:03:17 PM »

Yes, the gear sleeve spin on the bridge assembly was stuck. I was able to get it apart and cleaned it all up.  The reel looks pretty good now.  I am going to clean and oil them all and replace all of the drag washers on the reels in a few weeks once the boat is out.  I want to get some Cal's and Corrosion X too. I don't know if anything else should be replaced but I will research it a bit. 

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festus
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« Reply #139 on: October 05, 2017, 09:40:57 PM »

Thanks for this tutorial, Alan.  l was able to get some work done on one of my Penn Peerless No. 9s.  The rubber band trick really helped.
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PDXTightlines
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« Reply #140 on: January 31, 2020, 01:47:34 AM »

Hey Fella's, I have a few questions about improving my USA Made 209.

I plan to update the washers in this 209 and two 330 GT2's & I'm wondering which Cal's drag grease to get. I'm guessing these are classed as small reels, but not sure?

I have a bottle of Corrosion X, is that the same as the Reel X suggested here?

Is there a better choice between Yamaha grease and the Pen Reel Grease for the gears in these models?

To upgrade the gear sleeve can i use the 98-155PRO part with a new star drag 10-505?

One more for now, I'd like to upgrade the Fiber Washer in the 330 GT2's to the carbon fiber part #6-875. Mystic Parts shows none in stock, but found another site claiming to have them. Anybody know if these are still around?

Thanks in advance, PDXTL

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alantani
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« Reply #141 on: January 31, 2020, 02:31:09 AM »

the stock carbon fiber drag washers inside the main gears are fine.  stick with them.  for washers under the main gear, smoothdrag has a "jigmaster" washer and "113h 4/0 senator" washer made of carbon fiber.  you can ask specifically for those.  for the grease, use either the peanut butter-colored regular stuff or the thinner purple "low temp" stuff.  either one will be fine.  i only use the regular stuff.  corrosion x and reel x are basically the same, except that reel x has more lubricant and less diluent.  between yamaha grease and penn grease, i prefer the yamaha brand, but both will work equally well.  for gear sleeves, stick with the stock brass ones as long as they are ok.  if you need a replacement, then look at stainless. 

you'll have to get the drag washers from smoothdrag.com.  both mystic parts and smoothdrag will have everything else.  good luck!  alan
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PDXTightlines
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« Reply #142 on: January 31, 2020, 03:05:33 AM »

Thanks Alan, these reels all have very little use on them at this point, so I'll stick with the brass gear sleeve for now. One more question, I'm pretty sure I bought the 209 in 1990, would the stock washers be carbon on this one, or should I upgrade them?
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« Reply #143 on: January 31, 2020, 03:39:27 AM »

they should be carbon fiber.  just grease them and you should be fine!!!!!
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PDXTightlines
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« Reply #144 on: January 31, 2020, 04:05:36 AM »

Great! One last thing. The Jigmaster 500 washer would replace the base fiber washer on the 209 & the 113h would be for the base of the 33o GT2's, correct?

With the 209 being about 30 years old, should I find a way to get all the old lubricants off, or just clean out what I can with a basic break down?

Thanks for all your help, I'll be firing in to these as soon as I get the parts in!!
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alantani
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« Reply #145 on: January 31, 2020, 04:16:44 AM »

Great! One last thing. The Jigmaster 500 washer would replace the base fiber washer on the 209 & the 113h would be for the base of the 33o GT2's, correct?

With the 209 being about 30 years old, should I find a way to get all the old lubricants off, or just clean out what I can with a basic break down?

Thanks for all your help, I'll be firing in to these as soon as I get the parts in!!


the original penn drag washers do not work that well under the main gear.  there are two types - thick and thin.  the thick ht-100 drag washers are the ones found in the 113h.  they have a stiff fiberglass core with a layer of carbon fiber on each side.  then thin ht-100 drag washers are the ones found in the jigmasters and squidders.  they are a single layer of carbon fiber. 

the thick ones work ok if there is enough room in the drag stack, but sometimes they are too thick and cause spacing problems.  the thin ones do not cause spacing problems, but they get mashed down too much and can fail.  that's why i like to use the thin carbon fiber from smoothdrag.  they are a better quality weave so they hold up fine and they do not cause spacing problems because they are the right thickness.

for dealing with excess grease in the reel, i just wipe it all out as best i can, maybe scrub with an old toothbrush, maybe a q-tip or two, and call it done.  my goal is a light, then professional looking coat of grease to coat and protect the inside, but nothing so thick that it looks like a 5 year old went in with a grease can and a paint brush.  it really doesn't matter that much, but it's just something that i've migrated to over the years. 
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Lingwendil
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« Reply #146 on: February 03, 2020, 06:53:48 PM »

For the several I've torn down and cleaned up, I found soaking the parts in PB Blaster or WD-40 in a small glass jar worked very well to get old grease and lube to come off easily, and then simply rubbing off any extra with scraps of an old T-shirt worked great. Dry everything very well, and then assemble- lubricating as you go. Very easy to work these over and get them as good as new.

The Smooth Drag brand carbon washers are very nice, as are the Penn HT-100 ones, I have a set of each on a couple of 209s, as wellas a 209 with the original leather(?) ones. I think they are a very nice improvement over the original drags in the older reels.
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« Reply #147 on: July 24, 2020, 08:06:27 PM »

Were does the Penn 209 gets greased? I don't see it in the tutorial. Do the gears get any grease or just lube?
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Sharkb8
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« Reply #148 on: July 24, 2020, 08:26:49 PM »

Yes grease the gears and a lightly grease the bridge assembly use oil on the bearings and the levelwind .

Kim
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AlasKen
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Kenneth "Crystal Dawn" Eagle River, AK


« Reply #149 on: March 11, 2021, 05:24:48 AM »



First thanks to Alan for a great tutorial.  I went through another 209 with my 8 year old grandson.  This is now his very own reel.  I wanted him to understand it a little.

I couldn’t find a rubber band so tried something different this time.  When ready for the level wind I built the non handle side with post and reel set.  After putting the spool in place I put one screw on the handle side reel set loosely.  I then loosely added the screw on the post #59 that has the slot for the line guide #46. 



This held the reel loosely together while I inserted the worm shield #50 into the 4 little holes.  Once in place I tightened the 2 screws.  With the shield in place I could insert the worm #42 and line guide as a unit.



I had removed the left side worm bearing #42 and worked the worm assembly into the open area on left side



and once in I inserted the right side into the right side worm bearing #43.  Once it in place I ensured that the worm drive was moving when spool moved.  I then installed the right side bearing, ensured everything worked properly and continued with assembly



It took twice as long to write this up as it did to do it.  I hope this helps if you don’t have a rubber band handy.
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