alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Slosh Frames
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
December 12, 2019, 01:50:23 PM *
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SoCalAngler
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« Reply #15 on: June 07, 2014, 08:37:09 PM »

I also replaced the bushing in my SL20SH with a 3mm x 10mm x 4mm bearing.
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sundaytrucka
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« Reply #16 on: July 02, 2014, 09:36:33 AM »

Checked out their website this morning and it states they will do another run of the frames....

WITH ROD CLAMP HARDWARE BUILT IN!!! (DID NOT STATE IF A ROD CLAMP WOULD BE PROVIDED OR OEM WAS TO BE USED).

Prices will be raised slightly due to the rod clamp addition, still no clicker, I will be buying one of each when the new ones are released.
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Ron Jones
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« Reply #17 on: July 02, 2014, 09:45:36 AM »

That is cool, can't wait to see them.
Ron
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Ronald Jones
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jaypeegee
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« Reply #18 on: July 07, 2014, 04:05:49 PM »

I also replaced the bushing in my SL20SH with a 3mm x 10mm x 4mm bearing.


I'm going to do this to my regular framed slosh. Did you shim/space the bearing to stand it off the end cap?
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SoCalAngler
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« Reply #19 on: July 07, 2014, 06:10:57 PM »

No Jaypeegee I did not. In my cap it seemed that there was a shim already installed between the bushing and the cap side. Look here at the cap and as you can see there is a different color (lighter brown vs. black of the cap). I didn't try to get the shim out? or whatever it was out because this reel had only been fished one time and did not have any salt/water entering as far as I could tell. Look at the 12th pic down to see the shim.

http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=10526.0

After installing the bearing to replace the bushing I did not notice big difference in freespool. It seemed in my reel the spool shaft spun freely and did not come into contact with the ID of the bearing at all. Maybe with the flex of the composite frame under load there could be contact but I didn't see any with either bushing or bearing on testing.

Would I do it again? Maybe, but with the cost of only $5 for the bearing while I was already in the reel I gave it a shot. Do I think it helped? No, not a great deal.

EDIT: I just took off the cap and it looks like there is a brass spacer/shim between the cap and bushing or in my case bearing.
« Last Edit: July 07, 2014, 06:33:35 PM by SoCalAngler » Logged
jaypeegee
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« Reply #20 on: July 07, 2014, 07:42:04 PM »

The brass shim saves wear and pressure on the end cap from what I see/read
I was referencing the use of a small spacer on the right hand side of the bearing to allow the bearing to spin without touching the brass shim.

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SoCalAngler
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« Reply #21 on: July 07, 2014, 09:13:40 PM »

Well like I said the OD of the spool shaft didn't even come into contact with the the ID of the new bearing, it spun freely not even making the bearing turn, so no shim was placed in.
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jaypeegee
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« Reply #22 on: July 07, 2014, 09:44:38 PM »

the OD of the spool shaft didn't even come into contact with the the ID of the new bearing

Weird. I will check again tonight but I was sure mine did. When you are wrong as often as I am you begin to lose track. Cheesy..

Assuming the ID of the bush is 3mm then does that imply inbuilt tolerance for casting and support for retrieve under load I wonder?
I don't have a vernier to check the bush ID. Did you confirm an identical ID between the bush and the 3mm ID bearing?
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skrilla
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« Reply #23 on: July 07, 2014, 11:28:22 PM »

Checked out their website this morning and it states they will do another run of the frames....

WITH ROD CLAMP HARDWARE BUILT IN!!! (DID NOT STATE IF A ROD CLAMP WOULD BE PROVIDED OR OEM WAS TO BE USED).

Prices will be raised slightly due to the rod clamp addition, still no clicker, I will be buying one of each when the new ones are released.

This is good news. Lack of clamp provisions was the deal breaker for me. Now with clamps and even new handles coming soon I will definitely be purchasing some.
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SoCalAngler
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« Reply #24 on: July 09, 2014, 03:05:56 PM »

When I bought the bearing I only checked the size of the bushing. After replacing the bushing and not seeing a difference in freespool I checked the ID of both and it was 3mm for both bushing and bearing. I tested the reel with the bearing in place and cap off and this is when I noticed that the spool shaft was not spinning the bearing. I then put in the bushing with the cap off and noticed the same thing, the spool spinning but the bushing stayed still. My spool shaft must be a few 1000th thinner than both the bearing and bushing ID's is all I can guess but the result was the same in my reel. When I measured the shaft I got readings like 2.98-2.99mm.
« Last Edit: July 09, 2014, 03:08:57 PM by SoCalAngler » Logged
Fish-aholic
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« Reply #25 on: July 09, 2014, 04:03:37 PM »

The bushings purpose is to support the shaft when under load from the drag paying out line. To test, set the drag to 6-8lb, tie the line off to something stationary and walk backwards with the spool tension cap removed, this should get the bearing to roll. Will it improve performance? negligible.  Undecided

I do like the frame conversion, but does it manage to lower the spools height so it sits closer to the rods blank - or is it still the same height as the stock frames? I got small hands and find it tough to grip the spool when trying to hit the horizon.  Roll Eyes
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SoCalAngler
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« Reply #26 on: July 09, 2014, 06:10:56 PM »

The new frame lowers the spools higth.

Edit: Check out the size of the stock frame compaired to the aftermarket here.

http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=10526.0
« Last Edit: July 09, 2014, 06:35:21 PM by SoCalAngler » Logged
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« Reply #27 on: July 10, 2014, 10:11:17 AM »

Thanks for that. For my personal needs, it's a shame the conversion does away with the clicker. It's a must for my bait & wait surf fishing needs.  Undecided I do like how the conversion has curvature crossbars. Ideal for those who lack good line guiding technique  Grin
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jaypeegee
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« Reply #28 on: July 10, 2014, 04:50:50 PM »

I had a look last night and the same bearing not spinning applies to mine.

I guess as stated above this may be to provide pinion support under load and less interference when casting.
X2 at the lack of clicker from me as well on these frames - I am restoring a beat up Original 7HT and took it out for the first cast last night. The realization that I love how it casts was off set by the knowledge it will never scream to alert me a fish is online due to the no line out alarm - Not sure if this is a deal breaker yet but will take time to get used to but the lower spool height is absolutely fantastic compared to the SL20SH.
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floating doc
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« Reply #29 on: July 11, 2014, 06:55:07 AM »

These are great frames, but the lack of a click kills it for me too. I would already have one.
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