Gear sleeve flaring tool!

[alantani]

Screw this into the mangled top of a jigmaster gear sleeve and flare the top for a solid fit for the handle arm, then back it out and repair the threads. I think it might work. A stainless steel gear sleeve is still better, but not all of our customers can afford it. 

Of course,  it could also strip the threads. 

[Bill B]

Crap the Boss is thinking again.  It would most likely work though.

[alantani]

It on tom hryniuk's list of things to do!!!

[MarkT]

If you can afford the tool, you can afford the sleeve!

[GerryR]

How about just using a tubing flaring tool so the threads aren't touched, except maybe the the top thread or two.  then just chase the threads with the right tap.  Between the metric and standard flaring tools there's probably one that will fit the outer diameter of the gear sleeve.  Just a thought if you haven't tried it yet.

[alantani]

How about just using a tubing flaring tool so the threads aren't touched, except maybe the the top thread or two.  then just chase the threads with the right tap.  Between the metric and standard flaring tools there's probably one that will fit the outer diameter of the gear sleeve.  Just a thought if you haven't tried it yet.

yeah, i have a tap.  i had been hammering these and it always mangles up the threads.  easy to fix, though. 

[jurelometer]

I must be misunderstanding the tool. It would be fast if it worked, but  I am not too optimistic.  As I see it:

1. The flare is going to flatten the threads. You will be relying on the handle nut to recut some threads, hopefully aligned with the remaining threads below, which seems unlikely. [Edit:  On second thought, may not be too bad.  The tool will recut the threads on the way back out- not with the proper clearance of a tap, but maybe good enough for soft brass]

2. The tool's taper  ("flare") is going to cause the sleeve to be reformed unevenly,  mostly toward the end.

3. You are relying on the internal brass threads to be strong enough to drive the reforming.

4. You will leave a larger gap where the threads use to be, so the reformed sleeve flats will not be as strong.

5. You will be stretching out the external threaded portion as well, which could interfere with threading the star back on.


I kind of liked your old mashing technique.  If you are going to get something made, what about something using that strategy?  something like this:



just screw the form down the external threads and then tap the top "reformer" in with a hammer. less likely to mangle the interla threads and more likely to generate the correct shape. [edit - a slightly more complicated part could protect the internal  screw threads  without needing the set screw]

Maybe a set screw put in first that could get backed out if you needed to re-tap the internal threads. Hoping that wouldn't ne necessary.



Just an idea...

-J

[GerryR]

I kinda agree with MarkT, "If you can afford the tool, you can afford the sleeve."  Specialized tools can get expensive!

[Donnyboat]

Good subject BOSS, but your art, is only a little better than mine, cheers Don.

[Brewcrafter]

I kinda agree with MarkT, "If you can afford the tool, you can afford the sleeve."  Specialized tools can get expensive!

I don't think The Boss is thinking along the lines of somebody that has one or two deformed gear sleeves; I think this is more along the lines of a tool for a full service reel repair shop that may see dozens (or more) of these in a year, or otherwise "worn but functional" sleeves that may just need a touch up.  And a portion of those folks maybe being on a budget. - john

[alantani]

.... but your art, is only a little better than mine, cheers Don.....

dude!      

[Rocket Dog]

Alan, when you smash on them and then fix the treads with the tap, do you find that the handle cap screw still fits alright?

[jtwill98]

I remember using the tool pictured in the attachment to remove the valve lifters in my daughter's Pontiac in the early 90s.   

This idea will be difficult to describe, so first a description how it works.

Look closely, the bottom piece is slotted so that when the rod is unscrewed the bottom collapses inward (springed steel) allowing the end piece to fit into the lifters.  When the rod is screwed in, the bottom expands inside the lifter to catch the lip inside the lifter.  Screw it in a tad more and is seats tightly against the lifter wall. This allows one to hammer out the lifter out the valve cover opening without removing the oil pan. 

Using this same principal, the rod would have a cylinder at the bottom, the end piece would have matching tap threads at the bottom on the outside to match the hole threads. The end piece would need to have a pocket on the inside to allow the spring material to compress around the cylinder shape allowing you to insert the tool into hole.

Above the pocket inside the end piece there would need to be an inclined slope that the cylinder shape could be pulled up against expanding the bottom outwards into the existing threads. This would be accomplished with reverse threads inside the top of the end piece and appropriate distance on the rod.

The rod would be placed into the hole till it reached the bottom of the hole and twisted counter-clockwise expanding the bottom outward and into the inside threads. The inside of the end piece would need to have collar inside to act as a stop, blocking the cylinder at the proper thread width, preventing too much expansion and keeping the tool from tightening on the hole wall and threads.

At this point the tool would work similar to removing a bolt. The top end of the rod would have t-handle and one would twist it counter-clockwise backing the tool out of the threaded hole.  If designed with proper tolerances, the tool would cleanup the threads from the inside bottom to the top and cut or straighten the threads near the top as you backed the tool out. 

Of course, there would be no need for the hammer slide, so the tool need not be as long as the attached picture.   

I'm not sure if this idea exists as a patent or not.  It might make for good idea for a patent filing.

[foakes]

I have done something similar when I used to work on Penn Conventionals.

I would clamp the sleeve in a wood-faced vise —- drop in a plastic Molly Bolt drywall insert —- using a hex head screw —- and tightening downward with a T-Bar 1/4" driver and a socket will expand the brass sleeve slightly because the brass is soft —- and there is no damage to the threads.

The hex head screw does the slight expansion —- but due to the plastic Molly Bolt insert —- there is no thread distortion or even clean up afterwards.

Quick and easy.  Saves time and money.

Best, Fred

[alantani]

Alan, when you smash on them and then fix the treads with the tap, do you find that the handle cap screw still fits alright?

the ones i fixed in the past were ok.