Penn 113H spool removal

Makule · April 30, 2012, 08:29:37 PM

If you want, I can put it on the lathe and work on it for you.

redsetta · April 30, 2012, 09:11:09 PM

QuoteIf you get that reel back up and going you will have resurrected a reel from the dead...

x2 Dom - it's a great feeling...
Good luck Mike.
Cheers, Justin

oregonrafter · May 01, 2012, 01:50:58 AM

After a day and a half of soaking in solvent, I started working on it again. I applied naval jelly to remove the rust. The shaft is slightly pitted, but it looks workable. The rust wasn't as bad as I thought ...or so I thought...

My first attempt at removing the bearing was to place a 1/4" open-end wrench under the bearing, while tapping on the end of the shaft with a hammer. This did nothing but flatten the beveled end of the shaft. I stopped before it mushroomed too much, which would have prevented the bearing from ever coming off.

Scratch head. Time to rethink and retool.

I have no bearing pullers, so off to Harbor Freight, which is only about a mile from my house. I stared at their offerings for a good long time before choosing this $10 persuader.

oregonrafter · May 01, 2012, 01:53:06 AM

This definitely wouldn't work as-is, so I had to fabricate a plate that would slip around the shaft, under the bearing. I made this out of a piece of 1/4" steel (shown below).

oregonrafter · May 01, 2012, 01:55:01 AM

After extending the pushing shaft with a small diameter bolt, it's ready for applying pressure.

oregonrafter · May 01, 2012, 01:58:24 AM

...crank, crank, crank..... POW! Spool flys in one direction, bearing pieces fly in every direction, while I stood there with a dumb look on my face. It took me a moment to understand what I was seeing (below).

oregonrafter · May 01, 2012, 02:03:18 AM

Damn! I mean, #$Z%!
The inner ring of the bearing is still stuck on the shaft. I tried using vice grips... she's a no go. It's really stuck on there.

Time to rethink and retool again. ...Sigh.
I'm not sure what to do now, except get out the torch and heat 'er up. Suggestions?

If the bearing is this tough, I can't imagine I'll ever get that pinion gear off without demolition tactics.

Hey, even if this ends in failure, at least I'm having fun trying!

john2244 · May 01, 2012, 02:41:21 AM

Keep up the good work, we are all learning from your adventure.
John

redsetta · May 01, 2012, 02:46:15 AM

No matter what, it's a great learning curve.
I've been through this as well and have a 9/0 in my workshop at present with a thoroughly seized pinion.
You could try clasping the inner race with vice-grips and twisting it loose.
If you have a multi-tool (ie Dremel), you could also try cutting the inner race on a 45 degree angle (so as not to score the shaft), then twist/pry the cut open with a screwdriver.
If it's anything like the one I'm working on at present, the pinion is likely to be more difficult. $:-\$
Sometimes that's just the way it goes.
Been a good story thus far though!

Good luck, Justin

Makule · May 01, 2012, 03:11:11 AM

I'll repeat what I said earlier: Soak for a long time in ATF/acetone combination (not just a few drop on the top and let it sit).

Since you've already broken the BB and have the inner race exposed, take something like a small pipe wrench and try gently twisting it off. It should come off with enough persuasion, but don't overdo it or you'll damage the shaft by bending it.

Once the race is off, work on the pinion gear in a similar manner (I.E., wrap with a good amount of tape to protect the teeth, and then try twisting it off with pipe wrench or vice grip). Heat on the pinion gear should also work as a last resort. The heat may be high enough that it'll anneal the gear and make it unusable.

CRC makes something called "Freeze Off Super Penetrant" that works with cold rather than heat and should be less damaging to the pinion gear and shaft than heat. I've not tried it, but have heard good things about it.

Finally, if none of that works, send it to me and I'll cut off the gear on the lathe.

broadway · May 01, 2012, 05:08:29 AM

OA,
The only thing I would try in regards to the inner race that wasn't mentioned is a small pipe cutter so you can adjust how far down it cuts. Just go slow with whatever you do.... that's where I failed

Good luck,
Dom

Irish Jigger · May 01, 2012, 07:12:31 AM

That inner race is hardened and should break with a gentle squeeze in the bench vice,works for me.

Remember the pinion is engaged with the two "flats" on the spool spindle and I would suggest pulling rather than twisting (after a prolonged soaking in release agent.)
Good Luck,you have made great progress. We are keeping our fingers crossed that you save the spool.

oregonrafter · May 01, 2012, 07:16:57 AM

Quote from: Irish Jigger on May 01, 2012, 07:12:31 AM
That inner race is hardened and should break with a gentle squeeze in the bench vice,works for me.
Remember the pinion is engaged with the two "flats" on the spool spindle and I would suggest pulling rather than twisting (after a prolonged soaking in release agent.)
Good Luck,you have made great progress. We are keeping our fingers crossed that you save the spool.

I'll try squeezing it, as suggested. I'm going to soak it some more before continuing. Any suggestions on how to pull that pinion straight off of the spindle?

Keta · May 01, 2012, 12:57:03 PM

Try to get a plate under the gear or in the grove on the gear, load your puller up and then carefuly heat the pinion gear, it should expand and pop loose.

broadway · May 01, 2012, 02:08:47 PM

Is there any chance the pinion and inner race come off with canned air? I have seen mechanics use it to break off bolts that are rusted to the chasis.
I believe it may work if you turn the canned air upside with the straw in it, (be careful-Wear gloves for sure!) and direct it to where you think the spindle will freeze and not the pinion or race. It should take about a minute or so of constant cold spray then I'd try to pull the pinion and race off, GENTLY.
Keep plugging away,
Dom