Reel Repair by Alan Tani

Many of the older internationals Tiagra's and others have threaded drag covers which can be stubborn to remove.  Try these tips:
1)Try the correct specialty wrench first (if you've got one), if its not budging give the wrench a persuasive tap w/ a hammer.
2)if still stuck, try heating the drag plate/spool by running it under Hot tap water for awhile and repeat step 1
3) If still stuck you can try to use an appropriately sized car oil filter wrench to develop more torque.  I typically put a thin rag around the spool cover, under the wrench band to protect it, thin rubber (like from an inner tube) would really be best. If you are having trouble holding the spool while torqueing, you can gently clamp it in a wide- mouthed vice clamp with soft wood, and a rag to protect the spool from damage.
4)In a pinch, I have found wrspping a leather belt or strip of leather around the spool can duplicate the concept of the oil wrench.

A little high quality penetrating oil, some heat, and some light tapping around the spool/drag plate connection can help break it free.

Quote from: stevennc on March 04, 2014, 12:13:01 AM
I put together a reel that will be for bottom fishing in my kayak and on 1/2 days. I really do not like using anything too expensive on my yak because of possible theft while loading / unloading , risk of losing them to the sea, and just the fact that the reels are so close to the water the whole time. For this upcoming season I put together this Frankenstein Jigmaster from two broken reels , and extra parts. I ended up with some problems with the spacing sleeve sticking out too far after mixing the best gear with a different drag different bridge and drive etc. To take a small amount of material off the brass spacing sleeve this dremel grinding bit worked wonders and it was very quick. I used tape to mark were to end my grinding on the spacing sleeve. Sure its not as precise as some people with machine shop access, but it worked very well for me here are the pics of what I used.

Don't get rid of the delrin cutouts they might make a good spacer when an extra washer is needed.




Sal

Those Cut Outs would work nice on Newell Handles.

Mike

Why are they ruined Sal? explain

Probably just cosmetic -- not functionality?

Best,

Fred

I have done the same with vinegar. It is important to know how aggressive your cleaner is.
Ron

Quote from: foakes on October 19, 2014, 09:21:59 PM
Probably just cosmetic -- not functionality?

Best,

Fred

Yep! I could still use them, but the nice chrome is gone. This made me a little upset, most were for the 700 series, not available today.
I'm over it now though
If you never make mistakes, you will never learn anything
Sal

Sal --

If you need some specific bail screws to complete some old 700 series spinners -- I have quite a few for 700 -- 716, and up through I believe 722s.

Just let me know.

Best,

Fred

Someone came in last Thursday so I could order new parts for his Penn SSM spinning reel. He left the parts in Vinegar and Baking Soda? over night and nothing was left of the main gear and crosswind gear..!

Sal,

I too wonder what caused this chemical reaction?  Was it the mix of chrome, steel & aluminum parts??
My two years of chemistry in college in no way makes me a specalist in chemical reaction, but I will contact Simple Green & ask their R&D dept. for ideas.

Can you sort out the chrome, steel & AL parts for closer inspection photos??

The soaking basket looks to be aluminum, not stainless steel.  In fact, it looks like the colander my Mother used for drain pasta (or spagetti) as us Northern Italians called it!!!!

Back with some answers after speaking with SG.
Wayne

Quote from: handi2 on October 19, 2014, 10:24:57 PM
Someone came in last Thursday so I could order new parts for his Penn SSM spinning reel. He left the parts in Vinegar and Baking Soda? over night and nothing was left of the main gear and crosswind gear..!

Wow! They don't make them like they use to.
As far as Sal's simple green issue, I think he just left them in too long. The green is that good. I use it when I have the patience, which isn't that often. I prefer a simple blast with brake cleaner or a coleman fuel soak which is almost instant and leaves no residue.

Quote from: El Pescador on October 20, 2014, 02:42:14 AM
Sal,

I too wonder what caused this chemical reaction?  Was it the mix of chrome, steel & aluminum parts??
My two years of chemistry in college in no way makes me a specalist in chemical reaction, but I will contact Simple Green & ask their R&D dept. for ideas.

Can you sort out the chrome, steel & AL parts for closer inspection photos??

The soaking basket looks to be aluminum, not stainless steel.  In fact, it looks like the colander my Mother used for drain pasta (or spagetti) as us Northern Italians called it!!!!

Back with some answers after speaking with SG.
Wayne

Probably electrolysis.

Quote from: foakes on October 19, 2014, 10:21:15 PM
Sal --

If you need some specific bail screws to complete some old 700 series spinners -- I have quite a few for 700 -- 716, and up through I believe 722s.

Just let me know.

Best,

Fred

Fred, you're amazing, always willing to help. I thank you, but for now I do not need them. If priced right, I usually grab discontinued parts whenever I get a chance. Thank you Fred.
Sal

Quote from: El Pescador on October 20, 2014, 02:42:14 AM
Sal,

I too wonder what caused this chemical reaction?  Was it the mix of chrome, steel & aluminum parts??
My two years of chemistry in college in no way makes me a specalist in chemical reaction, but I will contact Simple Green & ask their R&D dept. for ideas.

Can you sort out the chrome, steel & AL parts for closer inspection photos??

The soaking basket looks to be aluminum, not stainless steel.  In fact, it looks like the colander my Mother used for drain pasta (or spagetti) as us Northern Italians called it!!!!

Back with some answers after speaking with SG.
Wayne

Wayne, I believe you hit the nail on the head, I've mentioned a while back that I do not mix brass with chrome when soaking for a day or two, I was getting black marks on the brass, I didn't think it would have mattered with the screws.
Again, if you soak the parts for 12 hours or so, as I did today, it won't matter mixing them. This batch came out nice and clean.
The problem isn't with Simple Green, I love that stuff, the problem was from me leaving the parts for almost two weeks, I'm sure I'll probably do it again . Maybe I'll install an alarm , I'm always soaking parts.
By the way, I do not add water to the Simple Green, I use it straight out of the gallon.
The screws were brass, aluminum and plastic. The thick screws got the most damage, those are from the early reels. The plastic screws couldn't give a reaction, but the chrome would. The flatter screws show no sign of damage .
Sal

Over the years, I have discovered that the aluminum will cause this reaction -- and the brass will also.  

Generally the chromed over brass will be OK.

SS is never a problem.

But here is what I do differently -- I use a good ultrasonic cleaner -- reservoir filled with water -- 2 wide mouthed plastic canisters -- one with Simple Green, one with Purple HD Degreaser -- both cut 50% with water.

I use a HD L&R ultrasonic cleaner with a good size reservoir, good electronics, all SS, professional grade for Dentists and Doctors.  These can be bought for around $100 to $250 -- regularly on eBay.  No Heater.

All brass, chromed over brass, SS, or steel -- goes in the purple.

All aluminum, plastic, pot metal, basically any other at risk metals goes in the Simple Green.

No heat, set timer for 6 minutes -- if really badly impacted with grease, go 12 minutes.

Pour all of the parts into a strainer like a pasta colander.  Recycle the solutions back into each original container.  I generally get 10-12 reels cleaned before needing to change out the solutions.  No use wasting $$$.

Soak and rinse in water all parts -- remove the parts to dry on a paper towel -- and you are done.

They come out shiny, clean, and every crevice is completely free of any debris.

Painted parts can be done this same way, in the Green -- but this is where care and experience come in.

Be careful, you might lose some paint.  If in doubt, just spray with Simple Green and use a brush on these painted parts.

After awhile, you will know which metals work with which cleaners.

I have done too many old Mitchell's with aluminum cranks, baffle plates, soft nuts and cross wind blocks.  

This is a quick, effective, and lazy way to clean reels.  And I can do an entire disassembly, cleaning, reassembly, grease, oil, torque, and adjustments to nearly any Penn, Mitchell, Quick, Daiwa, Shimano, Abu, or Cardinal in about an easy 45 to 50 minutes.  Internationals, Accurates, Avets, high tech spinners, and rear drag spinners take about twice the time for me.  But this is a complete strip down -- not a partial.  And this includes a cup of coffee, and a break while letting the parts clean.

I never mix up more than one reel in the same cleaning batch.  Just one at a time -- no mistakes or confusion that way -- at least for me.

Best,

Fred