Reel Repair by Alan Tani

I have most of my YT rods set for 28lbs initially... gets them moving in the right direction  But then we're not fishing 30lb sets for them, obviously.

I like the idea of the adjustable stop. If I needed a stop at all, I would like to decide where it is, but I never have any idea how much drag I am using in pounds, I just change it to what I need as I fight the fish.

I disagree with starting at max drag on anything except with iron. My first trip, I lost several yellowtail on the first full day and Martin, who I argue is the best Panga Captain anywhere, kept saying "take it easy, take it easy." Yellowtail hit hard, and if the drag is to strong they tend to go away. I believe they hit so hard that they rip the bait off before the hook is in position to do its job, but have no way of proving that hypothesis. I just know that letting the fish run for a bit results in more reliable hookups, even with swimbaits.
The Man

Quote from: Ron Jones on September 13, 2022, 11:59:46 PMI like the idea of the adjustable stop. If I needed a stop at all, I would like to decide where it is, but I never have any idea how much drag I am using in pounds, I just change it to what I need as I fight the fish.

I disagree with starting at max drag on anything except with iron. My first trip, I lost several yellowtail on the first full day and Martin, who I argue is the best Panga Captain anywhere, kept saying "take it easy, take it easy." Yellowtail hit hard, and if the drag is to strong they tend to go away. I believe they hit so hard that they rip the bait off before the hook is in position to do its job, but have no way of proving that hypothesis. I just know that letting the fish run for a bit results in more reliable hookups, even with swimbaits.
The Man

You don't have to jump from zero to max.  You just need to get there soon.  If you are fishing circle hooks on the drift/drop, the lever drag is your friend. Once you decide that it is time, just gradually move up the lever until the rod loads up and keep going until you hit high drag.  With a star, it is on/off, so you might have to compromise down a bit for the initial drag, and adjust the star on the fly once the rod loads up.

If I am trolling live bait, that means that I am so desperate for a fish that I will have the rod in my hand and the reel in freespool, and use my thumb to manage light tension during the troll and take. If you are sticking it in a rod holder, usually just enough tension to keep the spool from turning, but otherwise the same.  A lever is your friend here too.

If you are losing fish because they don't get hooked or not hooked well, especially on the circle hooks, it is usually from trying to set the hook or not letting them run long enough in "freespool".  If you are breaking off fish from pulling too hard on 60 lb leader attached to 80 lb braid, you are either stronger than anyone that I have fished with, or you need some work on you knots.  If you are losing fish because of abrasion... well maybe more drag earlier on, so it is harder for them to reach the rocks.

Quote from: boon on September 13, 2022, 11:44:25 PMI have most of my YT rods set for 28lbs initially... gets them moving in the right direction  But then we're not fishing 30lb sets for them, obviously.

Yup.  The lesser of what the reel can handle, what I can handle without injury, and what won't break the line. At 28, it is a bit hard to keep me in the panga if the seas are a bit bouncy.  I am usually closer to  20.

Quote from: oldmanjoe on September 13, 2022, 10:48:11 PMI don`t have a dog in this fight .    But if i was to experimenter with a drag profile , i would look at spring washers , wave washers and belleville washers and the combinations of both spring and belleville  washers .    Wave washer would help the low end and the belleville would the high end ..

https://www.spirol.com/assets/files/disc_wp_differences_between_disc_springs_and_belleville_washers_us.pdf

https://www.design-engineering.com/the-difference-between-disc-springs-and-belleville-washers-1004037495/

Interesting on the disc spring vs belleville thing!  I keep learning new stuff on this thread.  Sounds like more of a spec thing than something functionally different.  McMaster uses them interchangeably.  But if there was a load to deflection chart, it would take out some of the guesswork, which would be nice.

The goal here is to have a spring stack with a linear load increase as the cam rise compresses it.  Not sure that a wave is going to help in this situation, especially where we are talking about some fairly large forces for a spring that small and a limited travel range to work with.

Is there a tutorial showing how to replace the riveted handle knob on this reel?

I'd like to get a blue round knob for it.

thanks,

 Rob

A center-punch and a drill press, sadly, or you can mill or file the back off the rivet then punch it out. I can't remember the exact hole diameter.

Are knobs made for different hole diameters? Be good to know before ruining the original.

thanks,

 Rob

I checked mine, the hole diameter is probably 5mm. It's between 3/16 and 13/64. Alan' handle bolt is a perfect fit. As long as your replacement bolt is 3/16inch or 5mm, you should be ok.

As far as tutorials, look up Alan's handle installion thread in his section. He does a great job of explaining how to remove the old handles.

Great thread,learned a lot. Received today the 5ii, after playing with it ordered the 5Nii for 30lb use in the GOM on a PCH801H aboard our version of LR boats, the Yankee Captain. Bottom fishing 200-400' for snapper,grouper,blackfin tuna. The 5ii will spool 40lb on a PCH801XH. Also have the new Alijos 5Nii on the Temple Reef 8' Innovate MH. I need to change my name to Okuma Boy!

Quote from: jurelometer on September 13, 2022, 05:17:39 PM

Quote from: sabaman1 on September 13, 2022, 07:22:59 AMLooking at the specs and size of the reel it looks to be designed to fish no more than 25lb test mono. Which would give you a setting of maybe 8lbs at strike and 12lbs at full. I think if you want to fish those drag numbers your speaking of, the cavalla 12ll is the reel for you.

The Okuma USA site lists capacity  for 40 and 50lb braid, and max drag strike/sunset at 15/24 lbs.

https://okumafishingusa.com/products/cavalla-lever-drag-reels.

The international Okuma site lists same max drag in kilos  but doesn't specify braid test, just capacity by line diameter.

Not commenting on what the max practical settings for this reel might be, just what the published specs are.

-J
 
Sorry, my mistake!

It took just over two weeks to receive the new assembly. Very simple to remove the old shaft and replace with the new shaft, since it included all the parts except the cross pin. After install, I checked the drags and found the drag curve was steeper than before (less movement of the lever results in the drag ramping up quickly). I thought the new heavy bellevilles might be stronger than my previous original set, so I swapped them out for the original set. Exact same drag curve with either set of heavy bellevilles. So now I just have to be careful. If I set the strike position at 14 to 15lbs, full is now 23 to 24 lbs, as advertised by Okuma. So if/when I decide to move the lever past strike, I only need to move it a couple clicks and I am at 18lbs, which is my preferred limit on this reel.

I do not recommend removing the c-clip. It is far too soft and there is a high chance it will deform and therefore be unusable. Someone mentioned in another thread about finding a source for inexpensive replacement c-clips, but it appears that is not an option and Okuma is not listing this c-clip as a separate part that can be purchased, only the entire assembly.

Old/damaged spool shaft is on top with the cross pin, new shaft is on the bottom.

Overall I like the reel, enough that I bought a second one to give as a Christmas gift this year. Mine will get another workout next year when I try for my first tuna on the Pacific Queen 1.5 day trip.

are these the original bellevilles or the new ones that i mailed out to you?

Alan,  Both of these sets are the original heavy style. I was not able to use the light version you sent, so I'll get them back in the mail to you.

I used the lighter Belleville's on my Andros and it helped. Rogan you can always remove the small "C" clip that acts as the spool spacer and pull off the other way ??

Hope you are doing well.


Cheers:

Todd

Eegads,

If I understand correctly,  the e-clip failed, but the standard c ring clip on the other side held.

Looking at the failed clip photos, a couple thoughts:

An e-clip is better for easily maintenance, but it is not the ideal  clip for thrust loads.  Curious choice putting a clip there instead of widening the shaft, and then curious-er to use an e-clip.  E clips have the least slot contact surface area for these c-type clips.

The cup face of the belleville is going to further weaken the e-clip hold.  It would be nice if possible to squeeze a flat washer in there.

-J