Reel Repair by Alan Tani

Adding a thread for mine,

Pending list =
1. wiring for electronics
2. Side fenders
3. Bilge wiring temp/permanent

This has been sitting in storage for 2 years, finally brought it home few weeks back. Need to get this done!

Defnitely need a dry box to house the electrical fuse/relay box in the rear, the front desk has a tiny opening but not usable.
Added 3 rod holders

You have a great channel in the sides to route wires through split wire loom .I got the marine 12VDC wire on Amazon white outer jacket with red/blk inner.
It's pretinned & I soldered  all the splices when possible & heat shrinked them.

Where do I put the switch/ fuse box ?
I see some switches panels with breakers and some with fuses
I am liking the breaker ones.

Depending on your amperage needs, breakers are nicer for higher amperage loads.  A lot of the pre built panels you will find on line will have fuse protection built in.  LED lighting is amazing, tons of lumens of light for lower amperage.  Make sure to carry proper spares with you after your install,  even a fused pigtail if you go the breaker route can save a trip.

I think it should be aft closer to the Captain.If you get a fish finder dont make the mistake I did
& put it where you cant read the water  depth

My trolling motor recommended a 60 amp breaker. It was large & I mounted it on my battery box with
Nylon bolts/nuts.

Like I said Tinboats.net has lots of photos to get ideas & ask questions.Think it out make sketches,whats practical & what would
Get in the way while fishing or during an emergency. You dont wanna mount something to be a permanent trip hazard


I have been Government trained in "Risk Manage-ment"    

QuoteI soldered  all the splices when possible & heat shrinked them.

On soldered connections vs crimps on boats:

We get in a raging debate on this on the weekly Zoom from time to time.  There are folk that just hate-hate-hate crimps.  But the reality is that on boats (and cars), vibration during operation will make a soldered connection fail first.

The American boatbuilding standard specification:  ABYC E-11.16.3.7: "Solder shall not be the sole means of mechanical connection in any circuit." In order for a boat build to be Coast Guard certified and insurable, it must meet ABYC standards.

You just need to use good quality marine grade crimps of the right size with a good quality crimping tool.  I have learned to lurve crimps.

Here is a good overview from West Marine:
https://www.westmarine.com/west-advisor/Marine-Wire-Terminal-Tech-Specs.html#connections

-J

Quote from: jurelometer on September 22, 2026, 06:12:32 PM

QuoteI soldered  all the splices when possible & heat shrinked them.

On soldered connections vs crimps on boats:

We get in a raging debate on this on the weekly Zoom from time to time.  There are folk that just hate-hate-hate crimps.  But the reality is that on boats (and cars), vibration during operation will make a soldered connection fail first.

The American boatbuilding standard specification:  ABYC E-11.16.3.7: "Solder shall not be the sole means of mechanical connection in any circuit." In order for a boat build to be Coast Guard certified and insurable, it must meet ABYC standards.

You just need to use good quality marine grade crimps of the right size with a good quality crimping tool.  I have learned to lurve crimps.

Here is a good overview from West Marine:
https://www.westmarine.com/west-advisor/Marine-Wire-Terminal-Tech-Specs.html#connections

-J

I like the marine grade connectors with the heat shrink on them.  Also additional heat shrink can be added.    I have found that my switch panel on one side of the aft bench, and the fish finder on the other side works well.  There is limited landscape for you to use and also be able to run the boat easily.

It's funny the ABYC E-11.16.3.7 refers to solder as a "mechanical connection" I was trained a soldered joint is an electrical connection & crimps are mechanical.

Crimps are more convenient for sure & easier to repair if needed.I crimped  terminal lugs on wires going to my terminal board.I only spliced wires together so nothing to vibrate.If you soldered to a terminal or turret that is
Stationary whereas the wire could still move & vibrate to the point of breaking.

Working on ATE for 40 years I have seen screws vibrate loose almost to the point of falling out,it happens even when you think you have seen it all.

From what I read:
A soldered connection in a high vibration environment has a higher propensity to break and fail.

Keta mention a item called deox

For any connection in use this.

I found this on the web
Nice and clean and fit have to hack up the bote

I have not figured out how/ where to position the Garmin.
This boat has a tiller for now

Temp solution
Gotta get this boat on water and pass coast guard inspection

Nav lights - battery leds (done )
Bilge - inline switch with 10 amp fuse
Garmin - direct plug in with inline fuse
Lights a
Spotting  - rechargeable with magnetic bases

Alu boats and magnets and friends, in 3 m vhb taped steel plates used for framing
, they are galvanized and are cheap,

I
Might use this
Solution for the Garmin too,