Reel Repair by Alan Tani

Adding a thread for mine,

Pending list =
1. wiring for electronics
2. Side fenders
3. Bilge wiring temp/permanent

This has been sitting in storage for 2 years, finally brought it home few weeks back. Need to get this done!

Defnitely need a dry box to house the electrical fuse/relay box in the rear, the front desk has a tiny opening but not usable.
Added 3 rod holders

You have a great channel in the sides to route wires through split wire loom .I got the marine 12VDC wire on Amazon white outer jacket with red/blk inner.
It's pretinned & I soldered  all the splices when possible & heat shrinked them.

Where do I put the switch/ fuse box ?
I see some switches panels with breakers and some with fuses
I am liking the breaker ones.

Depending on your amperage needs, breakers are nicer for higher amperage loads.  A lot of the pre built panels you will find on line will have fuse protection built in.  LED lighting is amazing, tons of lumens of light for lower amperage.  Make sure to carry proper spares with you after your install,  even a fused pigtail if you go the breaker route can save a trip.

I think it should be aft closer to the Captain.If you get a fish finder dont make the mistake I did
& put it where you cant read the water  depth

My trolling motor recommended a 60 amp breaker. It was large & I mounted it on my battery box with
Nylon bolts/nuts.

Like I said Tinboats.net has lots of photos to get ideas & ask questions.Think it out make sketches,whats practical & what would
Get in the way while fishing or during an emergency. You dont wanna mount something to be a permanent trip hazard


I have been Government trained in "Risk Manage-ment"    

QuoteI soldered  all the splices when possible & heat shrinked them.

On soldered connections vs crimps on boats:

We get in a raging debate on this on the weekly Zoom from time to time.  There are folk that just hate-hate-hate crimps.  But the reality is that on boats (and cars), vibration during operation will make a soldered connection fail first.

The American boatbuilding standard specification:  ABYC E-11.16.3.7: "Solder shall not be the sole means of mechanical connection in any circuit." In order for a boat build to be Coast Guard certified and insurable, it must meet ABYC standards.

You just need to use good quality marine grade crimps of the right size with a good quality crimping tool.  I have learned to lurve crimps.

Here is a good overview from West Marine:
https://www.westmarine.com/west-advisor/Marine-Wire-Terminal-Tech-Specs.html#connections

-J

Quote from: jurelometer on September 22, 2026, 06:12:32 PM

QuoteI soldered  all the splices when possible & heat shrinked them.

On soldered connections vs crimps on boats:

We get in a raging debate on this on the weekly Zoom from time to time.  There are folk that just hate-hate-hate crimps.  But the reality is that on boats (and cars), vibration during operation will make a soldered connection fail first.

The American boatbuilding standard specification:  ABYC E-11.16.3.7: "Solder shall not be the sole means of mechanical connection in any circuit." In order for a boat build to be Coast Guard certified and insurable, it must meet ABYC standards.

You just need to use good quality marine grade crimps of the right size with a good quality crimping tool.  I have learned to lurve crimps.

Here is a good overview from West Marine:
https://www.westmarine.com/west-advisor/Marine-Wire-Terminal-Tech-Specs.html#connections

-J

I like the marine grade connectors with the heat shrink on them.  Also additional heat shrink can be added.    I have found that my switch panel on one side of the aft bench, and the fish finder on the other side works well.  There is limited landscape for you to use and also be able to run the boat easily.

It's funny the ABYC E-11.16.3.7 refers to solder as a "mechanical connection" I was trained a soldered joint is an electrical connection & crimps are mechanical.

Crimps are more convenient for sure & easier to repair if needed.I crimped  terminal lugs on wires going to my terminal board.I only spliced wires together so nothing to vibrate.If you soldered to a terminal or turret that is
Stationary whereas the wire could still move & vibrate to the point of breaking.

Working on ATE for 40 years I have seen screws vibrate loose almost to the point of falling out,it happens even when you think you have seen it all.

From what I read:
A soldered connection in a high vibration environment has a higher propensity to break and fail.

Keta mention a item called deox

For any connection in use this.

I found this on the web
Nice and clean and don't  have to hack up the bote

I have not figured out how/ where to position the Garmin.
This boat has a tiller for now

Temp solution
Gotta get this boat on water and pass coast guard inspection

Nav lights - battery leds (done )
Bilge - inline switch with 10 amp fuse
Garmin - direct plug in with inline fuse
Lights a
Spotting  - rechargeable with magnetic bases

Alu boats and magnets and friends, in 3 m vhb taped steel plates used for framing
, they are galvanized and are cheap,

I
Might use this
Solution for the Garmin too,

I need fire extinguisher ideas? A must have with gas motors.

I've had so many corrosion issues with connections on the kayak, that I don't bother with solder or heat shrink anymore. Best to make it easier and faster to change terminal connections when the inevitable happens. Also the heat shrink can hide problem areas. Two considerations are; all salt-water and everything gets wet on a kayak. I carry a wire brush and spare spade-type connectors with me.

That article mentioned voltage drop. During the last hurricane, I used my Cigarette lighter, plug-in inverter in my vehicle and it worked fine for my coffee grinder(always gonna forget to do something before the storm hits). Interested, I tested the AC voltage coming out of the inverter's 120V receptacles.; 97-98 volts AC. Inverter marked-as rated for 110V AC coming out.

Ok. Try installing some snap connectors on the inverter wire, so I can have the option of snapping in a self made spring clip arrangement attached directly to the battery, instead of the c. lighter plug. Got only 88V AC voltage that way. Each of 2-different car batteries gave the same results, and my stand alone 12V kayak battery had the same 88V AC reading when using the direct-to-battery clips. Scrape the clips down 'till they shine; same reading.

No definite conclusion yet, still have to test the grinder with both arrangements today. But, a voltage drop test seems to be real important. Today I'll do an ohms/resistance test of the clips vs the cig. lighter.
The snap and spade connectors look like they are aluminium, would that affect voltage?

Quote from: Gobi King on September 24, 2026, 12:48:31 PMTemp solution
Gotta get this boat on water and pass coast guard inspection

Nav lights - battery leds (done )
Bilge - inline switch with 10 amp fuse
Garmin - direct plug in with inline fuse
Lights a
Spotting  - rechargeable with magnetic bases

Alu boats and magnets and friends, in 3 m vhb taped steel plates used for framing
, they are galvanized and are cheap,

I
Might use this
Solution for the Garmin too,

No aluminum in contact with the galvinized, right? And magnets on boats for mounting?  Err...

Quote from: CI_Seawolf on September 22, 2026, 07:48:42 PM]
I like the marine grade connectors with the heat shrink on them.  Also additional heat shrink can be added.    I have found that my switch panel on one side of the aft bench, and the fish finder on the other side works well.  There is limited landscape for you to use and also be able to run the boat easily.

Maybe something like this?

https://www.fisheriessupply.com/ancor-heat-shrink-ring-terminals

Glue lined, and translucent, so you can see if some corrosion is forming.

The pro-solder folk are hard to convince.  I think it is useful to point out that the quality of materials and tools used in crimping makes a big difference. The idea is to use the optimal connection type for the situation and install it properly. The AYBC standards are based on engineering principles and real world experience, including Coast Guard reports from accidents.  It seems reasonable to follow their standard.

-J

Galvanized steel and bare alu
But wait the plate is not sitting in contact,
There is a mil gap
In the second pic
Vhb tape was used to attach it.

Gfish,
Better connectors are tinned copper.

I have a little experience with salt being it the main ingredient for winter in MI

I spray anti corrosive agent on my bare connections
Spade connections rock
But automobile type connectors with gaskets to prevent ingress works a little better.

Maybe you can measure the resistance across each connection for ac voltage drop? See where the loss is