saltist 40

Started by alantani, February 08, 2009, 11:20:39 PM

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mhc

Quick update on the 'high drag stack' on saltist 30T.
I swapped the star from the 30TH without effect. Then I swapped the drive shaft, drive shaft retaining plate, AR cog or ratchet, AR bearing sleeve, shaft bearing, spring washers and star ratchet washer - everything except the main gear. Now the 30T has plenty of room to back off the drag and the 30TH has less room but the drag is free with the star hard against the handle. The bend in the spring washers is more pronounced in one set but I didn't think it would make that much difference. Looks like something wasn't seated properly before - not sure what, maybe the AR cog.   
It can't be too difficult - a lot of people do it.

alantani

sometimes the inner tube for the AR bearing doesn't seat properly.  :-\
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

mhc

Thanks Alan - the AR bearing sleeve could well have been the culprit, after the initial service I don't recall taking it out of the bearing until I swapped it over on the last strip. I'll pay more attention next time I service them. 
It can't be too difficult - a lot of people do it.

alantani

at least it works now!   ;D
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

rambozo

Alan after swapping the drags to carbontex im only getting 10# of drag and it is hard to crank. I did try a small washer in the handle stack and it did not change. Any ideas?

alantani

spectra slipping on the spool?
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

Dave Bentley

I obtained a 40H a few weeks ago and immediately ordered a set of Carbon from Dawn, great service by the way, and last night made the decision to install them.

As I cleared the kitchen table to begin the job, (winter here and too cold in the shed) the wife, bless her heart, in her dulcit tones enquired as to, what are you doing now,  how much mess are you going make, make sure you clean it up and how long is it going to take.

My reply was drag washers, none, yes and Alan Tani said 30 minutes. "Her whip like was response was, (keep in mind she isn't a fishing person and doesn't read forums),  Oh yeah but Alan knows what he's doing, it will take you hours.

It was easy and quick, only took two goes and that was the eared metal washers up instead of down, and the yoke washers under the yoke instead of under the springs.

Thanks for the tutorial.
Only believe that which you know to be true.

alantani

Thanks for the best chuckle I've had in a while!   
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

falconer

Sometimes I think we stress too much about some drag when we have the star wheel rolled all the way back toward the reel crank handle.  Keep it there in storage, and it'll still crank down to the pounds of drag we want, when we need it on the water.  Just received a 30T back from Alan and there's slight drag at full "back-off", same as when I sent the reel in to the Master.  All I did was re-paint the reel with Duracoat firearm finish.  Big difference from a "storage setting" to a drag setting when we're fishing, and just not significant in drag performance when it counts.

Good fishing to you all!

Doug

mhc

#24
QuoteSometimes I think we stress too much about some drag when we have the star wheel rolled all the way back toward the reel crank handle.  Keep it there in storage, and it'll still crank down to the pounds of drag we want, when we need it on the water.  Just received a 30T back from Alan and there's slight drag at full "back-off", same as when I sent the reel in to the Master.  All I did was re-paint the reel with Duracoat firearm finish.  Big difference from a "storage setting" to a drag setting when we're fishing, and just not significant in drag performance when it counts.

Hi Doug,

I agree it's not important - if that is how the reel was manufactured, in your case you know the history of the reel and it has been serviced by an expert. With an unloved secondhand reel like my 30T, that has an uncertain background and serviced by myself, it can be a indication that something is amiss, either with the components or the reassembly. Or, on the other hand, the reel could have been like that from new in which case I have wasted a few hours with pointless pedantic pondering.

Michael
It can't be too difficult - a lot of people do it.

MuskyFishing

I have a Saltist STTLW50HA  Yeah its a 50, but close enough to this blog.  -So I don't open a new thread, I will post here.
To get to the DRAG discs, Do I have to the the gear completely off? (Are they UNDER or OVER the gear?).

I also wanna take this time to praise Mr Tani for taking his patience (and I bet a lot of it) To help me understand stuff.
Im not just new to messing inside a reel, Im new to fishing as well.
  I truly am honored that he takes time to read and REPLY to my "POSTS-OF-A-THOUSAND-QUESTIONS".   SO THANK YOU!!
A diver sees a man at 20 feet without SCUBA gear and watches him going down. 40...50..60...100...150...200  At 300 feet he catches up with the man, grabs his board and writes: "This is Amazing! How can you dive so far without breathing?" The man quickly takes the board and marker from him and writes: "I'M DROWNING YOU IDIOT!!!"

MuskyFishing

Question..  To work on a reel,  Do I take side A off, then re-attach it,  AND THEN do side B?
OR
Do I take BOTH sides off, work on it, And then put both sides back on?
Is there a 'right' order of which side needs to be taken off and on, first?
Example: Does side R need to be off before side L , but replace side L before side R to reassemble.
A diver sees a man at 20 feet without SCUBA gear and watches him going down. 40...50..60...100...150...200  At 300 feet he catches up with the man, grabs his board and writes: "This is Amazing! How can you dive so far without breathing?" The man quickly takes the board and marker from him and writes: "I'M DROWNING YOU IDIOT!!!"

mhc

Hi MuskyFishing

You're right the saltist 30T, 40, & 50 are very similar, they share the same sideplates and internals with different width spools & frame.

"To get to the DRAG discs, Do I have to the the gear completely off? (Are they UNDER or OVER the gear?)"
The drags sit inside the main gear - have a look at the 8th & 9th photos in Alan's tutorial for a shot of the drags installed and the order the washers are installed.

"Is there a 'right' order of which side needs to be taken off and on, first?"
Not with the saltist star drag reels, they are pretty simple reels - I start with the handle side then the spool and opposite plate, clean the plates, bearings, grease the drags etc while it is stripped then re-assemble - but you can do it in whatever order works you, if you are unsure follow Alan's tutorial.
It can't be too difficult - a lot of people do it.

chxh8me

I recently pulled my 40T apart to clean/grease/lube it.  After getting it back together, I noticed that when the reel is out of gear, and I crank the handle, the spool still spins a little.... as if it hasn't fully disengaged.  Unfortunately, I am not sure if it was doing that before I took it apart.  Although I did pick up someones 30T this weekend and it did not have the same issue.

I do recall that the spool did not want to come out easy when I disassembled it.  As if the pinion gear did not want to release the spool shaft.  I'm not sure if the spool shaft or pinion gear was somehow slightly damaged/bent while pulling on some decent grade yellows or what.  Looking at it, I can't see any noticeable issue.

I also compressed the yoke springs a bit, just to make sure they weren't putting excess pressure down on the yoke.  And made sure there was no grease on the spool shaft either.

Any suggestions on remedying this issue?  Or is it a non issue?  Freespool doesnt seem to be affected too much.  If I put very light thumb pressure on the spool while it is out of gear and cranking the handle, I can't feel any sign of the spool wanting to spin.

Am I just being overly paranoid?  I am not sure its much of an issue, but I have to imagine that any friction between the pinion gear and the spool shaft would have some effect on freespool.

On a side note, I did notice that a new Penn Fathom that I played with had the same issue with the spool rotating while cranking the handle in free spool.

Slazmo

Just a quick addition to this. I recently saw a load of Saltist O/H's 40's about 12 or 16 of them go into a friends for major service. Every Anti Reverse handle bearing was severely corroded out on the handle shaft bearing race, seemed that the actual bearing retainer and bearings were ok however all had to be replaced as one. Daiwa Japan had a terrible lead time and this caused quiet a few issues!

Good idea on changing the AR bearing to something similar Alan! I wonder if the Torium bearing from Shimano is far superior to Daiwa's offerings? I seem to get a lot of dodgy bearings from Daiwa (Thai made bearings)...

Andrew