alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial schematics for Dam Quick 550
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
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Author Topic: schematics for Dam Quick 550  (Read 7431 times)
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Donnyboat
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« on: May 15, 2017, 03:37:31 AM »

Hi every one, hope your all keeping well, yes I`m at it again, I need some schematics for a Dam Quick 550 reel, trying to search for parts I need from Fred, also I have the spool off the 550 reel there is a clicker cog, that I am having trouble removing, i see it has a boss under it would that boss have a screw in it, or a pin, do I have to hold my mouth the right way to get @ it, cheers Don
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« Reply #1 on: May 15, 2017, 08:16:20 AM »

Hi Don --

If you need to get it off --

(I have maybe only removed 2 out of a thousand of these over the years, really no need unless corroded -- just a clean off and a half drop of oil)

Pry it up with a couple of knife blades between the click tongue and head of the brass fluted insert fastener.

If you twist the fastener -- it will not re-install securely.

Here is the schematic and parts list.

Show us a pic of your reel, if possible.

Best,

Fred


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« Last Edit: May 15, 2017, 08:21:24 AM by foakes » Logged

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« Reply #2 on: May 15, 2017, 12:51:02 PM »

thanks fred, for your fast reply and help, but I think your confused with the cogs, the one I am talking about, is the flat cog that the spool sits on, to operate the clicker, not the bale arm one, I will send you an email with photos of the 550 reel, I can also send you some photos of the Master Mariner 349 if you wish to place it on the other post I had, the 349 was in real bad condition when I got it, but looks good now I will send you a before and after photos, its not possible for me to place photos till I update my computer, cheers Don.
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« Reply #3 on: May 15, 2017, 01:29:06 PM »

I might be mistaken, Donny --

The pics I sent you show the click tongue, click tongue spring, and the click tongue press-in brass keeper.

These are part numbers 1000014, 1000015, 1000016 -- and they go under the spool to interact with the toothed clicker gear attached to the spool axle.

Nothing to do with a bail assembly, however?

So I guess I am confused -- straighten me out...

I just pulled the spool off of a 550 -- plus pulled extra parts from the bins to show members what they were.

If there is a different thing you need -- look at the schematic, and let me know the name and part number of the item/items you believe you are referring to.

Glad to post your pics if you email them to me.

Best,

Fred
« Last Edit: May 15, 2017, 01:31:23 PM by foakes » Logged

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« Reply #4 on: May 15, 2017, 03:03:48 PM »

Thanks again Fred, the schematics show that the part maybe fixed to the shaft, shaft No 100-561, there is a flat gog on the shaft it has about 30 teeth that click the clicker, do I have to get that cog off to undo the nut below it, I will send you a photo as soon as I can get my wife out of her iglue, her mobile take cleerer photos than my camera, cheers Don.
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« Reply #5 on: May 15, 2017, 05:12:47 PM »

OK, I see what you are trying to do now, Don.

Unless absolutely necessary -- no need to take off the flat wheel with teeth -- just pop off the sideplate and remove the screw from the connecting block piece at the bottom of the axle -- the axle will just slide all of the way out so you can get the rotor nut off.

Hint:

On a Quick -- they may seem complicated -- but they are not...

(4) basic assemblies that go together easily when each is completed on its own --

-- rotor and bail assembly

-- body and frame assembly with the worm drive in place

-- crank handle with the main gear attached

-- spool and drag system

1) Do the worm drive and bearing frame assembly, set aside

2) Do the complete rotor and bail assembly, set aside

3) Do the spool assembly, set aside

4) Do the crank, main gear, and A/R system, set aside

Attach the complete rotor to the body with the drive plate, lock washer, and hex nut.

Insert the crank assembly into the body.

Insert the axle into the rotor pinion worm gear.

Attach the oscillation arm to the connecting block at the bottom of the shaft -- then the other end of the arm to the main gear --  check for proper operation -- screw the side plate in place.

Screw on the spool and drag knob.

Done.

Best,

Fred



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« Last Edit: May 15, 2017, 07:45:08 PM by foakes » Logged

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« Reply #6 on: May 15, 2017, 06:57:58 PM »

Thanks Fred, 11am here now do you ever sleep, really apretiate it Fred, cheers don, I will try to send you a Photo later @ a decent hour your time thanks again, also I have 2 550`s right hand wind also 1 left hand wind, can I convert the left hand wind back to right wind with out geting any part ?.
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« Reply #7 on: May 15, 2017, 07:39:53 PM »

Right, Don --

On a 550, they will switch from right to left -- or back, just by switching the connecting block to the other side of the oscillation arm -- and installing the 550 badge plate on the opposite side from the crank.

That is one of the beauties of most DAM Quicks -- the cranks can either be left or right -- without lessening the integrity and strength of the drive train like on some modern cheaper reels.

Or in the case of a Mitchell -- there is a pretty long list of parts that must be changed out due to the opposite rotation of the rotor head also -- gears, bails, springs, and much more.

In the case of most Penns of this vintage -- another reel needs to be purchased.

Either way -- the Quick engineers had it down dead simple and easy.

Best,

Fred
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« Reply #8 on: May 16, 2017, 02:51:08 AM »

all good Fred i have the reel total dismantled now, I dont think I need any part for this one, I have cleaned the bearing out, it is turning real smooth now, see how the other 2 reels are like once I open them, Fred could you tell us if these 550 reels are okay for ocean fishing or fresh water, thanks again, cheers don.
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« Reply #9 on: May 16, 2017, 05:06:32 AM »

They are designed for saltwater fishing, Don --

However, like many of the spinners from the 60's and 70's -- they must first be prepped with Marine grade grease for salt intrusion issues -- cleaned very thoroughly after use -- this is not always practical or possible.

And sometimes, a fisherman's skill set when it comes to reel maintenance -- is just not adequate.

That is why you see so many corroded 40 year old spinners -- sometimes best to just salvage what one can -- and toss the rest.

A better salt spinner would be an old green Quick Super, large Penn such as a 706, or some of the Penn SS series.

For more modern Salt Spinners -- one can spend from $100 to $1300.

For my consideration, and from my experience -- I would consider a Fin-Nor Lethal 100 -- in the range of slightly over $100, USD.

Just my opinions.

Best,

Fred
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« Reply #10 on: May 16, 2017, 09:04:29 AM »

good thanks Fred, not that i need to fish salt water with these reels just now, I have plenty of old large reels in the 8,000 to 9,000 catagory to fish with, I have 80lbs braid on them, some where around 200Metres to 250, I need that if I am bottom bouncing, just in case I get snagged, cheer Don.
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« Reply #11 on: May 18, 2017, 08:30:37 AM »

Here is one of Don's DAM Quick 550's --

Best,

Fred


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« Reply #12 on: May 18, 2017, 01:27:53 PM »

Yes good thanks Fred, the way you explained how to service the reel, was real good value, just for the other members, I did have trouble turning the rotor on 1 off the others, so I had to put the gearing back together, leaving the nut loose that holds the rotor firm and turning the rotor, to loosen it then dismantling it again, when I put the first one back together, I did`nt have any part left over, thats a first for me, Ha haa, thanks again Fred, cheers Don.
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« Reply #13 on: May 18, 2017, 09:16:54 PM »

Fred I am working on the left hand wind 550 reel now, you said that I would not need any parts to turn it into a right hand winding reel, maybe I am confused, part No-100-563 is called a slide, the part that connects to the slide is called connecting Piece, part No 100-564, it is an alloy block and the way I am looking @ it, I think there possibly a Right hand one, and a Left hand one, that is the part that the shaft goes throu the middle of & 2 screws with locking washer hold it in place, could you check it out when its connected to the slide please, see what you think thanks, cheers Don
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« Reply #14 on: May 18, 2017, 10:55:54 PM »

Easy fix, Don --

Just remove the connecting block from the connecting arm -- and place it on the other side of the arm.

Everything will work perfectly.

Best,

Fred


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« Last Edit: May 18, 2017, 10:56:54 PM by foakes » Logged

It's not about the cards we're dealt -- it is how we play the hand...

Patience, Preparation, Persistence -- The "3" P's
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