Where to find part for 2052dc?

Started by JNG3, April 17, 2018, 12:19:08 AM

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Midway Tommy

#30
Well when I opened up my DC a couple of weeks ago to take a look at the main shaft click gear/bushing I noticed that mine was cracked just like Jim's and when I removed the spool one side of the flat portion fell off. I finally got a little time last week to perform the fix I mentioned. If you remember, I found that a McDonald's straw fit perfectly over the bushing portion. It just so happens that Runza's straws are the same size and clear so I used one of their straws for a form. For any of you poor souls that don't have Runza restaurants in your area, you don't know what you are missing. They were started in Nebraska and well liked throughout the midwest.

The clear straw works great because you can see whether or not there are any voids in the JB Weld.

I removed the main shaft, measured the length of the round portion of the bushing (10 mm) and the flat sided length length (5 mm). I used 3 washers as a spacing guide above the click gear so that the cut would be straight and true all the way around. I used a small craft metal backsaw to cut the plastic around the shaft.



Next I roughed up the shaft surface and filed a couple of small grooves in the main shaft to give the JB Weld better adherence. I cut two straw forms, just in case I needed an extra, the correct length. I also had an old ball point pen section that was the perfect diameter to slip over the straw to make sure the form stayed perfectly round. I mixed the JB Weld and added about 10% clear 3 ton epoxy to help make the JB Weld a little harder when finally set.




I put tape on the threads to protect them from the epoxy and slipped the straw form over the portion of the bushing I left in place.



I used a block of wood and part of a pen for a stand to hold the shaft while I packed the JB Weld into the straw form.



Once the form was full, leveled at the top and centered on the shaft I slipped the rigid piece of pen over the form to make sure it stayed round until the JB Weld cured.



I let it cure for a couple of days to make sure it was good and hard. I removed the pen form and tape and this is what I had.



I made a small slit in the straw form at the base with an exacto knife and it slid right off. It was a tight fit into the spool bushing so I sanded it down a little with 320 & then 800 grit sandpaper until it turned freely in the spool bushing.



There are 16 points on the click gear so I marked the grooves between 8 on each side for a guide. That way I could make sure the flat areas were correctly placed opposite each other. I used a mini file and drag washer as a guide to file the 5 mm flat sided areas until the washer fit perfectly.



I figured that while I had the reel apart to fix the click gear/bushing I might as well clean and service it. For those that wonder how Shakespeare cheapened their last versions of the "Maroons", among things like the handle, they also went to nylon encased ball bearings without a metal race on this 2052.



Here the reel is cleaned & lubed, and you can see the epoxy click gear/bushing repair.



Ready for the sideplate, spool & drag knob.



Ready to fish or display.



The epxoy bushing repair will more than likely last as long as the rest of the reel.  ;D              
Love those open face spinning reels! (Especially ABU & ABU/Zebco Cardinals)

Tommy D (ORCA), NE



Favorite Activity? ............... In our boat fishing
RELAXING w/ MY BEST FRIEND (My wife Bonnie)

mhc

#31
Quote from: Midway Tommy on May 12, 2018, 04:51:03 AM
The epxoy bushing repair will more than likely last as long as the rest of the reel.  ;D              

I think so to Tommy, JB weld is pretty tough even without the 10% 30T epoxy you added. An innovative repair and very tidy work with the epoxy - thanks for sharing.

Mike  
It can't be too difficult - a lot of people do it.

Gfish

Nice! "Puttin your money where your mouth is"...
Be interesting to see what kinda drag stress that epoxy bushing could handle, perhaps the the spool 'er somethin else would fail first.
Also, good to know about the cheapening of these models in latter years. I guess it's compete for market-share, or lose out. Thankfully, there's always options for better quality: rebuild the older good stuff or lay down more money for "state of the art" quality.
Fishing tackle is an art form and all fish caught on the right tackle are"Gfish"!

Chuck750ss

Tommy, you didn't ever work in a paper mill did you? Your repair job on the spool shaft indicates that you did! :)
Outstanding job. Man doesn't use his head he should just as soon have two.......! What my dad used to say.

foakes

Great restore job, Tommy!

Best,

Fred
The Official, Un-Authorized Service and Restoration Center for quality vintage spinning reels.

D-A-M Quick, Penn, Mitchell, and ABU/Zebco Cardinals

--------

The first rule of fishing is to fish where the fish are. The second rule of fishing is to never forget the first rule.

"Enjoy the little things in Life — For someday, you may look back — and realize that they were the big things"
                                                     Fred O.

Alto Mare

Tom, I'm always amazed by your work, you got some serious talent. Thanks for showing us how it's done.

Sal
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

festus

I'm sure Tom's alteration is better than what was installed by the factory.  Just wondering how much Shakespeare saved by making that part plastic?

BTW, I have an extra 2052, it's a D.A., got it for parts.  It functions fine anyhow.  I checked it out today, noticed it is metal where Tommy replaced the plastic part but the pinion bearing is made in Japan. Bearing isn't plastic, but shielded metal  :-\ Only other difference I can see between it and the E.E. model is the handle.

happyhooker

That was a successful surgery, Tommy.  Patient looks fully recovered.

Frank

Rivverrat


JNG3

Wow, that is an excellent "step by step how to" on repairing that Tommy! Fred sent me an all metal main shaft the other day in the mail. I will be replacing mine with his. However I might just repair mine like you did yours. Never know when I'll end up with another 2052. My luck it will have a cracked plastic bushing too.

festus

Quote from: JNG3 on May 15, 2018, 01:38:36 PM
Never know when I'll end up with another 2052. My luck it will have a cracked plastic bushing too.
I have both the 2052 EE and a DA.  Their bushings aren't plastic.  Make sure you get one of the older ones and you probably won't have the problem. I also have a 2062 EF and it doesn't have plastic either.   

PacRat

#41
Hey Guys, Be careful with the DAs. I have one that I would assume is un-molested. Original factory grease, very crisp side screws, all the usual old funk and patina ....and it has the plastic bushing. The click gear/bushing was cracked so I'll be doing Tommy's fix when I find a straw the right size.
Is 'DA' a date code or just part of the model number. Does anyone know the chronology of the series?
Thanks
-Mike

Gfish

#42
You might be able to drip some super glue into the crack while spreading it apart with a knife, then wrap it together with electrical tape. Then you'ed haveta scrape the tape off with a razor.  

There's a post by festus in "Fishing Antiques and Collectables" with the date codes, dated April 14 2018.
Fishing tackle is an art form and all fish caught on the right tackle are"Gfish"!

Midway Tommy

#43
Shakespeare used the two letter code to indicate the first, and then the next/latest design change of US made models, many changes of which were minor. EE (1966) was the first 2052, DA (1970) second & DC (1978) which was last design change just prior to stopping production of that series.

Depending on where you live  ::), you best not wait too long finding the right size plastic straw!  :o  If you happen to be in one of those unobtainable areas let me know. We still value plastic in the heartland, I'll send you a couple.  ;D
Love those open face spinning reels! (Especially ABU & ABU/Zebco Cardinals)

Tommy D (ORCA), NE



Favorite Activity? ............... In our boat fishing
RELAXING w/ MY BEST FRIEND (My wife Bonnie)

PacRat

#44
Thanks G. This is some strange plastic. It's very soft and slick (like Teflon). Mine cracked a little different than the others. It has a circumferential crack that separated the tip where the flats for the drag washers are. Then there's also a longitudinal crack in the piece that's separated. Since this is where 100% of the drag is focused...I'm not sure if I trust superglue here. Good thing this is an ultra-light.
I'm going to look into those date codes better.
Here's what I gathered from this thread plus my own experience. I compiled a list of known samples by date code and which bushing they have.
EE (1966), four metal
EC (1968), unknown
DA (1970), two metal, one plastic
DC (1978), one plastic

Thanks Tommy, you posted while I was typing and your timeline fits. I suspect that the DAs may have had metal at first, then plastic as the parts ran out. Have you fished your JB Weld fix yet?...Maybe not with all those Cardinals you have.

-Mike