Penn 9/0 reel needs drag service do I dare??

thorhammer · April 11, 2019, 04:01:45 PM

Hey as it happens, i have a 9/0 project apart on my bench waiting a dog and sleeve pin. I will prolly put back together Sunday...want pics? same external drag as yours, but it's a full reclamation.

rebait1 · April 11, 2019, 09:25:18 PM

Any and all tips greatly appreciated. I'm domiciled in Exton Pa

rebait1@yahoo.com

thorhammer · April 12, 2019, 01:19:47 AM

I'm gonna start a separate thread. This one is your to post

Bill B · April 13, 2019, 04:04:53 PM

Reboot, the 9/0 is one of the easiestre Penns to do. Parts are big enough for my fumble fingers and the dog spring is a flat leaf spring which doesn't launch like the coil springs on the smaller reels. There a lots of guys here that can coach you through. Use a digital camera to photograph each step and follow one of the tutorials posted here. Good fitting screw driver and Penn wrench is necessary. Let us know how your doing....Bill

rebait1 · April 13, 2019, 06:24:13 PM

I'm pretty confused by 're assembling anti revers dog sliding over screw and how the flat spring lays on top of dog'.

The tear down looks easy enough. I'm getting ready to proceed!!

Gfish · April 13, 2019, 08:20:33 PM

Several years before I joined this site, I was gonna completely tear-down & rebuild my 114HL. Got the side-plates off and the tail-plate was easy: grease on the clicker parts, oil in the ballbearing.
Looked at the head-plate with that big flat brass plate( bridge-plate) and the 4 screws still in it and said "no way, looks like there's too much goin on in there. If I take that apart, I'll probably never get it back together right". I think I was probably right and wise enough based on past experience, to avoid that.
Once I came here and learned to navigate the site, Allen's tutorial got me through it. 4 tries, but I finally got it right!
Not too long after that, Sal's double-dog tutorial got me to accomplish that feat! Now I have a "clickity-clackin" 114HL, with new C-tex washers, a stainless steel gear sleeve and dogs. Someday, maybe I'll do faster/stronger gears, and an insert drag system...

rebait1 · April 13, 2019, 09:22:15 PM

I was that close to packing it in, then said what the heck why not?!?!
You guys were right it was compromised inside.

rebait1 · April 13, 2019, 09:24:06 PM

Do you think bearings ok?

Cleaning up OK

rebait1 · April 13, 2019, 09:33:41 PM

I put some time into cleaning these....

rebait1 · April 13, 2019, 09:42:06 PM

I had a dickens of a time getting off 1 of that side plate screws. All the others came of easy peasy. BUT My screw driver wasn't perfect and the on that one I had to hold the frame post with pliers in my left hand while holding screwdriver in right and turning the post!. One vey finally came off.

Now here's where I'm stumped. Isn't there suppose to be a pin holding this pinion on the shaft (names escape me I can't read the schematic to save my life). I watched a vid and guy hit a very thin metal piece with a mallet driving the pin(?) do the pinion slid off the bridge(?) It seems to be pretty easy spinning but I'd hate to get this far and not do whole thing properly.

Here's what I can't get apart. the tutorial I saw said to punch the top indentation. Which side do I knock and how far do I need to push it. (I get a tiny punch from HF tomorrow)

RowdyW · April 13, 2019, 09:44:48 PM

There is a small pin crossways in the gear sleeve that has to be pushed or drifted out to clean & regrease the bridge shaft. A small nail sometimes works unless it is stubborn then you will need the correct size drift punch. 1/8" I think. You can see the pin from either side in the top hole. Rudy

rebait1 · April 13, 2019, 09:49:32 PM

That little tiny indentation? It seems so small and flush it doesn't look like it will come out....Anyway Do I need to remove it completely? I'm guessing yes lol

RowdyW · April 13, 2019, 09:52:42 PM

I would remove it completely so it doesn't get lost in the cleaning & lubing. Once it is halfway out it almost falls out.

Donnyboat · April 13, 2019, 11:55:09 PM

Hi Rebait, the pin is near thread on the gear sleeve, but if the gear sleeve is spinning freely, then leave it as is, just lube it with TSI 321, or a light synthetic oil, the bearings are abit harder to get at, get a seringe, with a needle on it, suck some oil into it then squirt some oil behind the bearing, then place a wooden rod in it a turn the bearing, if it is free with know grinding, then it is okay, if it is grinding, then you will have to leaver the bearing out, take the sleave from it & wash it out with carb cleaner, or WD40, then reoil it, if the bearing still feels rough, the replace it, see how that goes, then ask for more info, cheers Don. I still got my money on you. yee haa.

Gfish · April 14, 2019, 03:35:36 PM

If you decide to remove the gear sleeve pin, what works for me is to lay it down ona piece of wood with a hole that the pin can move down into(~3/16), then use a 1/16-1/8" "pin punch". If it dosen't come out, penetrating oil, and/or heat might get it. Freezing can work too, but for me cooling works best on aluminium-metal combinations.
JMO, the ballbearings are still usable in a Senator >4/0, even when moderately rough, cause I'm not gonna cast it. After cleaning, some heavy oil inside and a coating of marine grease works. These can be difficult to remove from the cup if there's any corrosion and may get damaged in the removal process. Might be best to leave 'em in the cup and soak with something(I use Inox Mx3), before lubing.
This is fun, huh!?!