alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Penn Spinfisher V 4500: Service Tutorial
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
April 06, 2020, 07:28:34 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
 
   Home   Help Search Login Register  
Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Penn Spinfisher V 4500: Service Tutorial  (Read 134506 times)
0 Members and 3 Guests are viewing this topic.
cmaraj1
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 62


« Reply #45 on: March 12, 2014, 07:13:39 PM »

sorry i missed ur reply, im new to this site, i ended up jus returning it to basspro for another 3500v , so far its perfect.........do you have any pics of what i am supposed to remove if this happens again?
Logged
johndtuttle
Sensei
Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 1922


« Reply #46 on: March 14, 2014, 08:36:09 AM »

sorry i missed ur reply, im new to this site, i ended up jus returning it to basspro for another 3500v , so far its perfect.........do you have any pics of what i am supposed to remove if this happens again?


My suspicion would be that the Oscillation Slider (43) has either a machining or tolerance issue with some of it's production runs. It really is the only thing that can "come and go" unless something else is bent (unlikely). It's actually quite a precision part as it is responsible for the amazing line lay the Spinfishers have for this type of "locomotive" drive.

There is likely nothing for you to do. You will either get one that is perfect or one of the possibly bad batch. If your reel is good from the get go then you are in great shape.

Bear in mind, this is *only a guess* as to what could be the issue based on very little info. I have no other information about this other than what you have posted. Smiley


ps. It probably was a shimming issue in the drive train. Some of the pinions needed a tiny shim and then the reels performed smoothly.
« Last Edit: June 22, 2015, 12:00:20 PM by johndtuttle » Logged
johndtuttle
Sensei
Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 1922


« Reply #47 on: March 14, 2014, 09:10:24 AM »

It came up on another site as to how to best prep the Spinfisher V for fishing in the surf. Needless to say there has been a hue and cry over Penn's overly generous interpretation of the meaning of "watertight" when they should have used "most water resistant in it's class" as a more accurate description of the reel's capabilities.

The reel does have impressive sealing of the body and drag but has one glaring weakness where water can enter the pinion assembly:



This is normally quite well protected from splashes by the rotor but if the reel gets briefly submerged this area will come in direct contact with salt water. No bueno.

This is my elbow grease (effort and marine grease Cheesy) solution to this issue:



Which is a poor seal. BUT if all is well greased below (ie bearings have been opened and packed with grease) after a brief submersion this grease will have stopped sand and water from penetrating the the assembly and zero sand will have made it past. All that is required is a removal of the Pinion Bearing Retainer (21), pop the pinion assembly and wipe out any soggified grease. Re-grease and you are back in business.

The body can be easily checked by popping the side cover and the drags as well get a brief inspection. Both are very well greased from the factory and no parts will have come to harm, just a removal of any water and re-application of fresh grease is all that is required *if* any made it that far.

This is why Alan and other reel tech pros preach preparation in advance. It greatly shortens the effort when you have to open the reel after a drenching in saltwater. Grease will "emulsify" with the saltwater leaving you tell tale clues as to exactly where it has gotten. Fresh grease that is unmolested tells you that you are fine. Reels with no grease in them don't tell you right away necessarily where the salt has gotten.

Bearings that have been properly greased *on the inside* and properly greased on the *outside* may have soggy grease around them, but it is very unlikely that water has gotten past the shields and into the grease packing the bearing in any worrying quantity. Once re-greased on the outside and replaced I fish again with confidence. At a yearly service if you are concerned you can pop the shields again and you will likely find that you are fine.


« Last Edit: July 05, 2017, 03:26:25 PM by johndtuttle » Logged
cmaraj1
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 62


« Reply #48 on: March 20, 2014, 04:46:48 PM »

 after returning the spinfisher 3500v for another one,  three weeks later it doing the same thing, theres some resistance while retrieving.
i only pier fish and i rinse every time.... i dont know what the heck is going on.....
Logged
johndtuttle
Sensei
Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 1922


« Reply #49 on: March 22, 2014, 09:15:02 AM »

after returning the spinfisher 3500v for another one,  three weeks later it doing the same thing, theres some resistance while retrieving.
i only pier fish and i rinse every time.... i dont know what the heck is going on.....

"some resistance when retrieving"....tell me more. Is it intermittent like only at the top or bottom of the oscillation cycle? Or does it just feel stiffer than when it was new?
Logged
cmaraj1
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 62


« Reply #50 on: March 22, 2014, 10:47:21 AM »

 it only happens sometimes?  i used it yesterday and was perfect?
do u think i should remove the rubber seal from the handle? idk?
this is my second 3500v that has been doing this, it only happen sometimes???
i believe top and bottom.  its doesnt happen all the time.
any help would be great
thanks
Logged
johndtuttle
Sensei
Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 1922


« Reply #51 on: March 22, 2014, 12:21:34 PM »

it only happens sometimes?  i used it yesterday and was perfect?
do u think i should remove the rubber seal from the handle? idk?
this is my second 3500v that has been doing this, it only happen sometimes???
i believe top and bottom.  its doesnt happen all the time.
any help would be great
thanks

"only happens sometimes" is not likely to be the handle seal. They will stay in position generally or if they move at all would reposition to not seal (reducing friction) rather than sealing more (increasing friction).

Anyways, if it is a brand new reel there should not be any "stickiness" of any kind, intermittent or not. Something in the manufacturing process has possibly produced a part that does not have the proper tolerance. The spool shaft may be too long, the cut in the crosswind block not oriented perfectly, the casting of the idle gear not perfect etc etc etc and only when all of the parts are at some max/min does the binding occur as the action is "cyclic" in nature. Probably some thousandth of an inch is enough to possibly cause this trouble.

I saw your post in the Penn forum on Stripers Online and would suggest trouble shooting it with them as they have likely the perfect insight into this problem and can help you best.

Sorry I couldn't help you more.


regards
Logged
FatTuna
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 979


« Reply #52 on: February 18, 2015, 05:56:33 PM »

What happened to all the pictures Huh?.

A question for Johndtuttle: does the line retainer clip (part 47F) have a purpose? I picked up one of these reels the other day. I have to say that I really like it. Very attractive reel at a good price. Definitely nicer than the battle. However, that little clip under the spool annoys me. Can I just remove it? I haven't been able to figure out if it actually does anything.
« Last Edit: February 18, 2015, 05:57:40 PM by fatstriper » Logged
newport
Member
*
Online Online

Posts: 205


« Reply #53 on: February 19, 2015, 08:13:33 PM »

What happened to all the pictures Huh?.

A question for Johndtuttle: does the line retainer clip (part 47F) have a purpose? I picked up one of these reels the other day. I have to say that I really like it. Very attractive reel at a good price. Definitely nicer than the battle. However, that little clip under the spool annoys me. Can I just remove it? I haven't been able to figure out if it actually does anything.
If you take that off then you would be removing the line clip that's on the outside of the spool. You would then probably be left with a small hole on the spool where the clip bushing (47E) and the line clip (47D) would normally be.
Logged
johndtuttle
Sensei
Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 1922


« Reply #54 on: February 20, 2015, 08:33:30 AM »

What happened to all the pictures Huh?.

A question for Johndtuttle: does the line retainer clip (part 47F) have a purpose? I picked up one of these reels the other day. I have to say that I really like it. Very attractive reel at a good price. Definitely nicer than the battle. However, that little clip under the spool annoys me. Can I just remove it? I haven't been able to figure out if it actually does anything.

Well, generally it should be out of sight and out of mind Smiley.

As above it is the retainer for the drag stack and prevents the washers from dropping out if the drag cap is removed. If the drag cap is in place and you have some amount of drag set that alone is obviously enough to keep them in place.

However, you don't want to store the reel with any drag present as this will fatigue the washers. In that case it keeps them perfectly in place ready to go anytime you need them. I wouldn't worry about it one way or the other.
Logged
FatTuna
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 979


« Reply #55 on: February 23, 2015, 04:54:40 PM »

Thanks, Newport. I should have just taken it apart and I would have realized that's what that thing does. I wonder if the line clip system from the older slammer/spinfisher would work on this reel. I find that clip annoying when reassembling the spool. I wish the screws were larger as well. Other then that I really like these reels. 

Hi John. Thanks for responding to my question.

In regards to the drag stack, are you referring to part #51 or #47F?
Logged
johndtuttle
Sensei
Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 1922


« Reply #56 on: February 24, 2015, 10:23:55 AM »

Thanks, Newport. I should have just taken it apart and I would have realized that's what that thing does. I wonder if the line clip system from the older slammer/spinfisher would work on this reel. I find that clip annoying when reassembling the spool. I wish the screws were larger as well. Other then that I really like these reels. 

Hi John. Thanks for responding to my question.

In regards to the drag stack, are you referring to part #51 or #47F?


Sorry fatstriper I mis-read your post. Yea, the little clip system they use (#47F) is a PITA though it functions as both spring and retainer and the tiny screw is a challenge to replace. Should be one you have to deal with rarely.

Logged
FatTuna
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 979


« Reply #57 on: February 24, 2015, 10:19:14 PM »

No worries. Thanks for fixing the pictures.

I just rebuilt the Live liner version tonight. I had to open up the spool as it got dunked. The inside of the spool was okay but the body had plenty of salt residue inside. She cleaned up nice. The live liner internals definitely work better with oil as opposed to grease.

I like the regular version better. These reels have a great drag system.
« Last Edit: February 24, 2015, 10:19:45 PM by fatstriper » Logged
JoePlo
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 59



« Reply #58 on: May 24, 2015, 11:34:45 AM »

Anyone know of good aftermarket larger handles for this reel? After using it this weekend I realized the handle on this reel is dreadful. Basically designed so that you can literally only get a thumb and index finger on it. Not meant for man hands.
Logged
johndtuttle
Sensei
Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 1922


« Reply #59 on: May 24, 2015, 01:20:29 PM »

Anyone know of good aftermarket larger handles for this reel? After using it this weekend I realized the handle on this reel is dreadful. Basically designed so that you can literally only get a thumb and index finger on it. Not meant for man hands.


There are no aftermarket handles that I have seen yet but any number of after market knobs can be made to work.

However, they require a drilling out of the existing knob shaft to be replaced by a bolt on type that come with most knobs. Take a look at the ones from Jigging World.
Logged
Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines
Simple Audio Video Embedder
Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!
Page created in 0.219 seconds with 16 queries.