Loose Bridge Stem on the Jigmaster

Dr. Jekyll - AKA MeL B · April 02, 2014, 02:11:35 AM

Bryan,

i don't service reels professionally and believe me i could use the extra cash, especially i'm moving back there, because i'm on a fixed income. i know there are a lot of AT.com members who repair/service reels mainly because it's a passion, i'm one of these people and you're one too. but at the same time there are people who do this to make a living. and so the faster it gets back to the customer the better.

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Not everyone can afford new parts especially as they get scarce.
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i agree with you 101% that's why advise the owner before the fix so he can opt for either of the two, the cheaper fix or the expensive one...

Hamachi · April 02, 2014, 05:16:55 AM

If there is no chance of the shaft pulling through, you should be ok. Look how many new reels have floppy shafts with a bushing or bearing on them. If in doubt, get a bigger hammer. Just make sure you're backing it up properly to avoid damaging the stem.

Bryan Young · April 02, 2014, 07:13:06 AM

Mel, you are right. I do advise the reel owner regarding a loose bridge and provide options. When I know money is scarce for them, or if it's a kid, I will often just braze it for them at no cost because I know that they cannot afford the cost of a new bridge. With that, I inform them that I brazed the bridge and if it should ever come loose during fishing, the bridge should be replaced...it usually gives them a year to save up for a replacement part and it's usually time for the reel to be re-serviced.

Note that I have brazed about 12 reels, 6 or 7 of them are on charter boats that was serviced 2 or so years ago and I have yet heard from them about the bridge coming loose...only time will tell...I know. but if I can save someone some money, as long as it does not impair the operation and will not creat additional issues during fishing.

Besides, if the silver solder is able to wick into the joint, which I hope it is, it seals up the open space between the bridge and gear sleeve shaft, making it a tighter fit.

I sometimes also peen and then braze for added assurance.

erikpowell · April 02, 2014, 08:37:47 AM

Geez, a brand NEW jig master bridge and sleeve is less than 20 bucks...
how much is your time spent dinking around trying to re-peen & solder an old one worth ??

Keta · April 02, 2014, 01:34:06 PM

With reels like the 349 parts are hard to come by. Fortunately Sal had a few of them and for now it's not a problem.

bluefish69 · April 02, 2014, 03:26:37 PM

I have a Newell Bridge Shaft that is also loose but I'm not going to play with a S S part. If I was still working I could have it Welded. I will buy a New Used one on Ebay

Mike

Bryan Young · April 02, 2014, 04:59:58 PM

Quote from: erikpowell on April 02, 2014, 08:37:47 AM
Geez, a brand NEW jig master bridge and sleeve is less than 20 bucks...
how much is your time spent dinking around trying to re-peen & solder an old one worth ??

Erik, it's hard to charge even $15 for a new bridge when the reel may be worth $20...so I just fix it. I explain what I have done and they are usually estatic that they still use the reel.

franky · April 02, 2014, 07:23:30 PM

Oh gosh, I didn't realize that I'd get all these responses.

Thanks everyone...good insight and feedback.

Yes Brian, the guy did buy the reel for 20.00 and I was hesitant to add on another 15.00 just for a new part. I did call the guy back and explained his options and he was okay with the add on. The reel is now fixed and he is happy.

Now, I am going to take his old bridge and hit the back end of the stem very hard without hesitation with a bigger hammer just to see if it will peen. I will brace it firmly to ensure that I don't damage anything else. Hopefully, it will work.

Btw Sal, Nice double dog bridge for the jig! This will definately change the jig.

Thanks folks.

Dr. Jekyll - AKA MeL B · April 02, 2014, 07:40:24 PM

at the end of the day a reel that's worth $20.00(that has been with the original owner since way back) + new or refurbished part is priceless...

Tile · April 02, 2014, 07:52:28 PM

If the bridge were to be made from steel, the solution would have been simple - weld the bridge and the stem together.

Hamachi · April 02, 2014, 10:44:48 PM

Not knowing the level of expertise of the person asking the question, I try to answer in a way that even a newbie could understand. I hope my overly simplified instructions didn't insult anyone. I've seen many screw ups even though the instructions seemed easy enough. Growing up I was taught to catch fish with the bare minimum amount of gear. The important thing was to catch fish. I remember catching my first tuna on a penn 85 I dug out of the trash. We took hones to rusted hooks to smooth the corroded metal and to sharpen the point. Fast forward to today where we have to have all the latest bells and whistles and tons of gear in our fishing arsenals. I guess it's just me, but I think sometimes we need to get back to our roots, where less is more. Glad it worked out for you.

franky · April 05, 2014, 09:08:16 PM

Okay guys,

Here it is....I took a 10 ounce hammer (standard household size hammer). I braced the bridge to ensure that the stem was not compromised. I hit the stem from the backside and wouldn't you know.....FAILURE!

When looking at the back of the stem, the stem has a slight hump and a flanged surrounding that snugs the stem onto the bridge.

As I tapped the center of the hump (medium force), the hump began to counter sink and level off with the surface of the bridge.

All said and done, the surrounding flange ended up cutting off and separating from the stem hump that was flattened out and I was left with a doughnut shaped circle piece of flange. I said....Oh well...there went the testing.

It was a good quick experiment, but now I know... $:-\$

Just buy a new part!

Shark Hunter · April 05, 2014, 09:11:37 PM

Live and Learn franky.

It happens to the best of us.

Hamachi · April 06, 2014, 09:30:14 AM

You were supposed to hit the bridge in several places around the stem, to push some metal towards the stem. This is why I hate giving suggestions out. Live and learn I guess. When you peened the stem, there should have been no pressure exerted on to the plate, the whole force should've been on the stem, if that was the way you decided to do it. Sorry it didn't work out for you.

Dr. Jekyll - AKA MeL B · April 06, 2014, 11:51:00 AM

why didn't penn just weld/solder/ or whatever you want to call it the stem to the bridge? it's because of the "SUITS" the penny pinchers too much work etc.. how much more would this cost penn? and at the end of the day the ultimate consumer, the users, will pay. i for one will pay for a better designed and built reel but then again to each his own.

and also, i maybe wrong, a lot of this issues occur because of negligence. and also not everyone is a reel head...