NEED HELP --Can't remove right side plate screw on old Shimano

[wfjord]

I was going to go into a Bantam Mag 1000sg to give it an overhaul yesterday evening, but one of the two side plate screws won't come out.  The screw will turn almost endlessly, although tightly, and it remains tight against the side plate. Can't even get an exacto blade under the screw head. On the other side of the plate it screws down into a yoke post. Judging from my other Bantams I've overhauled, the yoke posts look non-removable.

I bought the reel new decades ago as a birthday gift for my dad and later reclaimed it after he passed away. This is the first time anyone has ever attempted to get into the gear housing on this reel.  It's hardly been fished and I don't want to damage or wreck it trying to get the screw out.

I would very much appreciate any help on this.

Thanks, W.

[oc1]

That's s tough one.  The yoke post is pressed into place and peened on the back side.  It sounds like the screw is seized and the whole yoke post is turning.

You could grind off the head of the screw to get the side plate off and be able to grasp the post with pliers.  But there may not be enough protruding stub of the screw left to get a grip on it.

If you can access the back side of the post you could drill out the peen and remove the post with the right side plate.  But, the only way to secure it back into place would be to use a longer screw with a nut on the back side.

I have an old Bantam 100 part reel and may be able to hook you up with a replacement screw if that helps.
-steve

[Bryan Young]

That's a hard one since the post is not visible on the other side since there is a black plastic cover of some sort so line doesn't get between the spool and the side plate.

Hmm, what would I do?

I would Problem slowly drill the plastic cover around where I think the post is to expose the the pressed side of the post. Then use a wooden dowel to support the screw while I take a flat punch the the flatten side of the post to spread it out tight again then try to unscrew the side plate screw.

Good luck.

[wfjord]

Thanks for your thoughts, Steve & Bryan.

I'm starting to get a sick feeling here. That right side plate is thin metal and the thought of drilling a new hole through it is painful, but I understand what you're saying.

Drilling the screw head out sounds like probably the best overall approach, but I don't think I could hold my dremel drill steady enough to keep it from jumping off the screw head and hitting the side plate and I don't have a drill press. I might could make a guard plate around that screw head if I go the route of grinding or drilling it. I don't know it the ends of those yoke posts internally threaded.  Regarding hammering out the yoke post from the backside, the question is how is the yoke post attached through the set plate?  Is it even possible to knock out that post without bending the set plate or side plate or something else?  There's no way to grip or anchor just the set plate.

As I sit here writing this, I'm thinking that if lay the side plate facing down with the backside of the set plate facing up, much of the weight of the entire unit should (hopefully) be on the exposed end of the drive shaft. So whether or not I could punch out the yoke post without doing damage depends on how permanently the yoke post is attached.

[Bryan Young]

Let me see if I can get some pics today for you.

[wfjord]

On all my other Bantams, the screws go in and out of the yoke posts so easily and perfectly that I just assumed the posts were internally threaded.  But in this particular case I'm wondering if this post just didn't get threaded in the manufacturing process. If I was even able to tap out the post, would I be able to put it back in place properly and permanently?

Bryan...
In rereading your post, I don't exactly understand what you were saying.

[oc1]

I think he's saying that you cannot access the back side of the yoke post because there is a plastic disc/cup in the way.  So, you need to make a hole in that cup/disc to see the back side of the yoke post.

Since it's an heirloom, you could just spay some lubrication through the pinion port and use it or put it on the shelf.

-steve

[Bryan Young]

I stand corrected.  I think it was the daiwa reels that had the plastic spacer.

when you remove the drive unit from the frame, you have an exposed metal plate.  On the plate, you can see where the yoke posts are peened onto the plate.  You will need to wack the post with a flat punch that has a little larger diameter than the yoke.  You do this while holding the side plate where the screw is now solidly supported by a wooden dowel so when you punch the yoke, it will not blow out the sideplate but will support the screw and yoke.  You may need an extra pair of hands to do this.  The balancing act is hard without an extra pair of hands.

The spreading of the metal should tighten up the yoke post enough for you to unscrew the side plate screw.

[foakes]

Hi W --

My 2 cents...3 things --

If the yoke post is turning with the screw -- just cut a slot with the Dremel in the recessed backside of the post where it is peened in place -- just large enough to get a screwdriver blade back there -- apply another screwdriver to the outside -- it should back out.

Or, take off the other screw -- work a thin knife blade around to as close to the stuck post as possible -- as you try to unscrew the screw -- keep as much pressure as possible between the metal side bridge and plate -- this may allow the screw to loosen off of the female portion of the post as you apply pressure with the knife blade.

Or, take it to an auto shop, machine shop, friend with a drill press, etc. -- and just drill out the screw slowly and with care.

The questions to ask yourself is:  do I want to waste a screw, a sideplate, or just have a Plinth Princess?

We have screws -- no worries.

Best,

Fred

[wfjord]

I couldn't see it before, but I saw it this time---YES, THE YOKE POST IS TURNING WITH THE SCREW! Okay, I'll try cutting a slot into the underside of the post. Will check to see if I've got a cutting bit that's thin enough; may have to hit the hardware store tomorrow. A glimmer of hope! I've got to be careful, that little screw head is not far from being reamed.

W

[wfjord]

I GOT IT OUT, thanks to you guys. Thank you Steve, Bryan, and Fred! Talk about timing. I've never really had a serious reel problem before this. If I hadn't discovered this Board a few days ago, I'd probably have done considerable damage to that reel.

To cut the slot I used a dental bit with a cutting bur so tiny I could hardly see it, but it did the job. The screw backed right out.  That screw head is pretty much reamed and will need replacing.  If anyone has a source for those screws I'd like to buy one, or perhaps a couple of them to have a backup if they're available.

Thank you all again.
W.

[foakes]

Good job, W --

PM your mailing address, and full name -- I will send you a couple -- N/C.

When you install them -- also just put a tiny dab of grease on the threads -- no future issues that way.

Best

[Bryan Young]

Good job. Glad you got it worked out.

[borchcl]

Love success stories!
Charlie