Progress for a newbie.

[lyt]

Hey guys,

Ok I have chatted with a few of you so far and thanks so much for the help.  

I decided to start a thread logging my progress as I do my first service of my reels which include:  3 TLD 25's,  1 TLD 20, 1 Daiwa 900H and 2 Baitrunner Plus 6500's.   (I dont think my sabiki pole & spinner rig needs any TSI 301 just yet)

I am going to (and already did) start with 1 of the 25's.

Right now I am waiting on parts from shimano, and a few from alan,  namely the wrench and the drag grease.   The only other things I am looking for is Reel-x and the Yamaha grease.   Not horribly hard to find....but neither of these products are as mainstream as one might think like in wal-mart or even west marine.   I called west marine and they did not have it and can't get it!  wow.

Ok,  so yesterday I disassembled one of the 25's up to the point where I need the wrench so i can't really go further.  

1)   Since these reels have an unknown service history, I am planning to completely clean them inside and out, probably way too much to the point that you guys would laugh and say....  "dude, what a freak".     This leads me to my first question?:  what do you use to clean the graphite housings?   I was just planning to use soap and water and a brush, blast it down with the hose outside and then compressed air to get the water off.

so is this BEST MOST EFFECTIVE and EASIEST way to do this?  Also is there anything I SHOULD NOT use?

2)  I did notice some very minor corrosion, (green)  like on the click spring (#101) and other parts like the lever shaft body (#11)  etc...  should i clean it first?   (with what?)   or just grease it?    (for the record, i tried wd40 and clr...and accidentally left it in the clr and it turned BLACK)  the corrosion was gone though   So basically the question is, how do you deal with corrosion?

[lyt]

very strange. 

ok so the click spring started out brass colored, left in clr overnight and now its black color, dried it off now its turning powdery white & green.  Interesting. 

Any ideas of how to change it back?  I tried vinegar, didn't work.   When I brush it with a metal brush it does turn back, but i fear i am removing too much brass.   any ideas?         

[redsetta]

G'day lyt,
Everyone's got their own preferred processes, but I tend to use white spirit for all cleaning duties.
Bronze alloy parts, such as your click spring, get a once over with a brass wire brush.
Salt corrosion on external parts such as posts etc can be dissolved with a (roughly) 70:30 vinegar/water mix.
I try to avoid using anything too toxic (such as CLR) - after a thousand-odd reels, one has to start thinking about cumulative exposure...
That said, I find carb cleaner essential.
RE: Your click spring, you may need to neutralise any remaining acid on the metal with some Simple Green (or bicarbonate of soda). Once that's done, give it a light coat of grease and reinstall - it'll be fine.
Hope that's of some assistance - let us know how you get on.
Good luck, Justin

[lyt]

Thanks red,

what would white spirit be called here in the US?

[Jimmer]

Lighter fluid or charcoal starter.

[redsetta]

Also known as mineral spirits.
It's a low irritant, with relatively low flammability...
I'm very cautious with anything more flammable (such as lighter fluid, turps, gas etc), as they tend to have significant vapour (ie inhalation) and fire risk.
Once again, it's a matter of cumulative exposure to either.
In a vapour-rich environment, even the electric motor on a Dremel or drill could kick things off...
Everyone's got their own approach though.
Cheers, Justin

[bluefish69]

I use Dawn on the Graphite Side Plates. I was using Greased Lightning a household degreaser  & found it to strong for my Newell's. It was taking the Black off the Newell name on the reels. If it is metal I use Break Cleaner. I put about an inch in a jar with a top & drop in the parts & swirl it around. Use the Alan's old Tooth Brush if needed & blow dry.

[lyt]

excellent, i have some spirits....

ok...   i am liking the dawn/detergent idea....just dish detergent on the frame with a brush.....

as for the spirits....   it would be better than toxic stuff.    I get headaches quite easily from strong toxic solutions.   

I am thinking a nice soft brush, dawn, warm water, and then a hose off will do the trick for the sides....  and the white spirit for the small parts, I hope it does not mess with the o-ring on that lever shaft body, i think i need to replace it anyway im not sure how old it is....   

[redsetta]

G'day lyt,
Charcoal fluid has a lower flash point than lighter fluid, while mineral spirits is slightly higher.
Charcoal fluid also burns longer.
It's your call of course, but the latter two are the safer options.
Cheers, Justin

[lyt]

thanks justin,

ok made some progress today,

1)   Stripped everything (literally)   even e-rings and every single metal part that could be removed from the graphite.   (yes this is where you [and even I] realize I have serious OCD issues )

2)  I had to make something to remove the bearing for the drag lever.   I figured I needed something to pry it out gently, so  I decided on a slightly modified paint can opener.   It worked GREAT.  the only thing was that i had to file it down to be sharper to get between the bearing and the housing and then kinda rock back and forth, came out easily. 

3) the good news is that the bearing although it has some crud on the outside....still had some grey/beige grease inside and one side was already opened (not sure it they come like that or not).

4)  Warm water and dish soap and a stiff brush works great to clean the graphite....   the were a few spots i used some thing stronger (like carb cleaner on a rag)  but for the most part everything looks like it did came from the factory, save the minor scratches and lettering ever so slightly worn.

5)  the question i have is....is there any danger if I leave the metal parts in carb cleaner overnight?

[redsetta]

...is there any danger if I leave the metal parts in carb cleaner overnight?

I wouldn't.
While it won't damage steel, alloy parts (such as the lever quadrant) could be etched or discoloured by long exposure to the strong acid in carb cleaner.
If you're trying to breakdown grease residue etc, better to just wash 'em in white spirit/lighter fluid/TSI321/Simple Green/WD40/acetone - there are plenty of better options.
If you're trying to remove rust or the green salt corrosion, a soak in vinegar and water will sort it out.
Good luck, Justin
PS Some discussion on degreasing etc here, if it helps: http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=1219.0

[lyt]

gotcha, agreed, i left the lever shaft body in the carb cleaner and the o ring turned into godzilla....   twice it size....   looks like i am going to be ordering another ring!

I do want to know what I can "leave" the parts in for a few days....  especially as a rookie, this process is taking me longer than a seasoned veteran, and sometimes i am waiting on parts etc.   It's alot easier to just leave the parts soaking in something than removing them just to sit on the table in the garage in the florida humidity to get  corroded again    

once i get the hang of it.....   I am sure i will just clean and rinse and re-assemble.

o BTW the brass brush turned my click spring to like new.   I'll never use anything else.   

[day0ne]

I use brake cleaner on the bearings, and not much else. Dawn and hot water do most of the cleaning and I use Barkeeper's Friend on corrosion. Barkeeper's Friend is a very mild abrasive that contains oxalic acid and is sold in most grocery stores around here (TX). Boaters love it. It's usually found with the other scouring powders like Comet. I buy lots of small brass brushes from Harbour Freight.

[redsetta]

the o ring turned into godzilla... twice it size....

That'll happen
Acetone will do the same (something I'd overlooked in another thread).

Re: soaking, it depends on what you're trying to achieve.
Metal/chrome parts can be soaked in a vinegar/water mix to break down salt build up/corrosion.
An hour or two usually does the trick - too long and it'll etch the surface.
Soft alloys can be badly damaged by soaking in vinegar, so be prudent.
Frozen/corroded metal parts can be soaked in Albert's automatic transmission fluid and acetone mix.
For anything else, just wipe off as much grease/crud as you can, then attack it with an old toothbrush and some white spirit/Simple Green/Inox/Dawn/WD40/Safety Clean etc.
Hope that helps.
Good luck, Justin

[Alto Mare]

All of my copper/brass parts get a bath in distilled vinegar and then in simple green to neutrolize, all chromed parts go straight in a simple green bath. It has been working out for me.