Penn 113H has no real drag...

Started by hippie, March 07, 2014, 02:52:46 PM

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Bryan Young

That looks correct. I think the eared washer may have been sitting on top of the gear. If you use greased cf washers it helps them stick together a little so you can get the stack in the reel together   .
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

Ron Jones

It looks to me like Lee was rite. No spirit there.If you put it back together correctly it should be fine.
Ronald
Ronald Jones
To those who have gone to sea and returned and to those who have gone to sea and will never return
"

hippie

No, when I first took them apart I was carefull and watched for just that. The eared washer was down inside and level with the top of the main gear.

hippie

According to the schematic, I should have two "keyed" washers back to back which is what I'm missing. Correct?

johndtuttle

#19
Quote from: hippie on March 09, 2014, 11:14:54 PM
According to the schematic, I should have two "keyed" washers back to back which is what I'm missing. Correct?

No, you've got it right. They alternate with a non keyed between them. There is nothing wrong with your stack that I can see.

As careful as you were if there is no drag for that stack there are only a few possible explanations:

1. Despite your best intention the ear was out. It could easily slip back in during the take apart.

2. The star is tightening all the way down without applying pressure because your spacing sleeve (9) is the wrong one. Sometimes they vary greatly in height.

3. But, you seem to have an extra stainless washer at the top of the stack. There should only be one normal metal keyed washer (86) under the tension spring (8A). There seems to be too many "stainless to stainless" washers ie you have 3 total in sequence and this may slip too easily especially if well greased.


regards

Shark Hunter

#20
Here is a picture from MysticParts on the stack. Fiber first, then keyed, fiber, eared, fiber, keyed and so on.

https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/6-113HSP.aspx

If the spacer is not correct, It won't supply the pressure needed for the drag to work properly.

"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"
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hippie

Here is the schematic I was using. As you can see there is a difference. At the top of the stack there are 2 metal washers back to back and they are the same. These 2 are right below #8A, then a spacer, followed by #8.

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/penn-113h-special-senator-reel-parts-c-186082_186083_186193.html

Thank you, Bob

Shark Hunter

Sometimes I have to add washers to the top of the stack to get the pressure needed for the drag to compress. Especially in an older reel that has been rebuilt before. The 10 and 12/0 have different lengths of spacers. I have come across three different lengths and modify the stack appropriately to compensate. Preferably with more drags. Or just change the spacer to the one suited to the stack.
Life is Good!

johndtuttle

Quote from: hippie on March 10, 2014, 06:28:22 PM
Here is the schematic I was using. As you can see there is a difference. At the top of the stack there are 2 metal washers back to back and they are the same. These 2 are right below #8A, then a spacer, followed by #8.

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/penn-113h-special-senator-reel-parts-c-186082_186083_186193.html

Thank you, Bob

Yep, yep. I have seen that before but if they are real greasy they might be giving you the trouble?

regards

Alto Mare

Try a different spring washer, if that doesn't do it sometimes could also be the star.
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

hippie

I'll try everything you men said to do. The star does get that tight when I crank down on it that I get grooves in my thumb and fingers. But the line, at that time, still comes off the spool way too easy. I cannot even pull a simple 4 arm umbrella rig! With 2 never used reels it is a shame to have to use a styrofoam wedge to help with the drag, but if that is what fishing has come to then so be it!
Thanks again, Bob

maxpowers

Hippie,

Try the star without the plate  but with all the washers and the spacer to see how far it compress the drag.  Compare it to when it is in the plate to see if the star is bottoming out before there is any compression of the drag.

Bryan Young

Quite possibly the pressure from the umbrella rig is greater than the drag your reel produces.  I maybe that you need a 7-stack in your main gear or a hex main gear with keyed drag washers.

What kind of drag pressure are you getting out of the reel now? 20#?
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

johndtuttle

#28
Quote from: Bryan Young on March 12, 2014, 01:25:38 AM
Quite possibly the pressure from the umbrella rig is greater than the drag your reel produces.  I maybe that you need a 7-stack in your main gear or a hex main gear with keyed drag washers.

What kind of drag pressure are you getting out of the reel now? 20#?

Good point Bryan. I envisioned light umbrella rigs but they can be enormous and have to be towed by 30w+ size reels if they are the big stainless monstrosities.

It would be very helpful if he actually measured with a scale what drag he is getting.

SoCalAngler

A normal umbrella rig should not apply that much pressure that a 113's drag could not pull it through the water.

One thing I have found helpful when working with Penn's drag stacks is to build the stack and include everything up to the spacer in this case part #9 on the gear sleeve. I then add a small grommet or rubber band above and tight to the spacer to hold everything in place while assembling the bridge to the side plate. Sometimes a rubberband may need to be doubled or more to hold the drag stack inside the gear during assembly. It does not need to be tight but snug enough so the top eared washer does not pop out of the gear as you attach the bridge with gear and drag stack to the sideplate. Adding the rubber band above the spacer makes removing the rubberband easy because it will be outside of the sideplate when the bridge is installed to the sideplate.