MAGNUM 500 - PENN JIGMASTER

[PacRat]

Thank you Al. Your excellent write-up has inspired me to get motivated on my own Magnum build which has been stalled too long while hunting parts. I'm now far enough along that I can see light at the end of the tunnel and finally have my frame and spool assembled. I noticed in your photos that it appears that your spool might be off-center to the left. Is this an accurate observation on my part? I'm wondering if this is common for the 500 Magnums as I'm having the same issue. I want to gather as much information as possible before proceeding. My spool sits to the left with the right side flange about even with the right sideplate (non-adjustable) and it sits deep in the left sideplate which is adjustable. I don't have a bridge and gears in here yet because I'm holding out for the stainless bridge before I do any fitting. I do have the spool and frame assembled and the spool spins true with great free-spool but I'm concerned because the spool isn't centered. I think that it could eat line up to 30 lb. mono on the right side but not the left. From the side of the spool flange to the side of the sideplate is a 0.002" gap; around the circumference the gap is greater. I would really appreciate any advice from the experts here. My first thought is to machine the right side bearing pocket a little deeper to allow the spool to center on the frame but I'm concerned that this might move the spool too close to the bridge for the pinion to fully disengage. I'm hoping this team of experts here will have some good advice. I'll wait until I'm certain that this would be the right fix before altering any of the rare Magnum parts.
-Mike

[DaBigOno]

I noticed in your photos that it appears that your spool might be off-center to the left. Is this an accurate observation on my part?...  I do have the spool and frame assembled and the spool spins true with great free-spool but I'm concerned because the spool isn't centered.I'll wait until I'm certain that this would be the right fix before altering any of the rare Magnum parts.
-Mike

I'm with you Mike, I don't fish it so ill just let it be for now.

[Bryan Young]

I just noticed mine is the same. Hmm. Maybe the spool shafts are a little long?

[DaBigOno]

I just noticed mine is the same. Hmm. Maybe the spool shafts are a little long?

Aloha Bryan,
Maybe we can experiment with yours and file down a little bit of the shaft. 

[Bryan Young]

I just noticed mine is the same. Hmm. Maybe the spool shafts are a little long?

Aloha Bryan,
Maybe we can experiment with yours and file down a little bit of the shaft. 

I will look into it further.

[Maxed Out]

Is it possible to back out the head plate bearing cup just a little ? Then tighten the tail bearing, which would move the spool over.

[Bryan Young]

Is it possible to back out the head plate bearing cup just a little ? Then tighten the tail bearing, which would move the spool over.

No, it's not possible because the side plate has a fixed bearing cup on the drive side, side plate. 

[ez2cdave]

Is it possible to back out the head plate bearing cup just a little ? Then tighten the tail bearing, which would move the spool over.

No, it's not possible because the side plate has a fixed bearing cup on the drive side, side plate. 

Hmm . . . A spool shaft "shim" in the right side to move the spool over ?

[Bryan Young]

Is it possible to back out the head plate bearing cup just a little ? Then tighten the tail bearing, which would move the spool over.

No, it's not possible because the side plate has a fixed bearing cup on the drive side, side plate. 

Hmm . . . A spool shaft "shim" in the right side to move the spool over ?

It's the drive side (right side) is where the problem lies.  it's pushing the spool too far to the left.  Not sure if it's the cup not being machined enough or an error in the spool shaft length.

[Alto Mare]

I just noticed mine is the same. Hmm. Maybe the spool shafts are a little long?

Aloha Bryan,
Maybe we can experiment with yours and file down a little bit of the shaft. 

I will look into it further.

I don't think knocking down a little on the tip of the shaft would help, I'm thinking the problem is with the shoulder on the shaft...too tall

Someone with a lathe could get it done.

Sal

[MarkT]

The easiest way to build a magnum jigmaster is just to get a Pro Gear 541 (or a 545 if you want a 99 size).  On piece frame, two screws out to remove sideplate and 4/0 guts with 4:1 gears inside.  Done.

[PacRat]

Sal, You are correct about taking the shoulder back a little. I don't think there's a problem with the tip of the shaft.

I agree with you guys but I'm holding out for the PC stainless DD bridge and gears before I do any modifying of the spool or headplate but if I were to make an assumption; I would say that the headplate bearing cup should be slightly deeper. Unless...there's a fitment issue and Accurate knew this when they designed it to allow more room for the drivetrain. Maybe they figured no one would spool it with line that could fit through there? There's evidence that shows that this is not totally uncommon. For sure Al, Bryan and myself have reels like this. Bryan, I'm assuming that you built your Magnum from parts like I did. Al, did yours come from the factory that way or did you build it? I'm asking because I'm wondering if the factory had a solution for dealing with this or if it's by design? Even the factory assembled units could be considered semi-custom.

My own thoughts are to either bore the bearing cup a little deeper or as you guys have suggested or modify the shaft. Either mod can then be tweaked to perfection with shims and the adjustable bearing in the tail plate. I feel that modifying the shaft may be easier with simple tools (drill-press and file) but a screwed up spool is probably harder to replace than a headplate. My spool was the last major component that I acquired and it kept this build on hold for a long time. The bearing cup is 3/8" or 0.375" dia. but I would want a tool that only cuts on the face (maybe Tom could comment on this?). I was thinking of using a four flute end mill with the cutting edges of the flutes dulled on the sides so that they won't cut then cutting it by hand with a holder like a tap holder or hand-turning the end-mill with a drill-press. The thought of boogering up a head is no bueno.

An ideal solution would be to drill and tap the headplate for an adjustable bearing cup but that could be expensive and risky also.

-Mike

[Alto Mare]

Mike, I wouldn't mess with the plate, corrosion would be an issue afterwards. Modifying the shaft as I've mentioned is not a big deal, but I would not do it with a drill press.
Tom could probably get it done in a couple of minutes
Sal

[David Hall]

Interesting, I haven't looked that closely at mine, I have a couple different models I will check to see if any or all of them share this condition.
Mine were all assembled when I got them but I do not think there are any factory assembled ones, didn't they all come from accurate as a conversion kit?  Buyer supplied internals.

I just checked mine.  The spool is centered perfectly on my squidder.  On one jigmaster the spool is also centered perfectly.  My other jigmaster the spool is very slightly off centre the same as we're talking about here, but mine is maybe 1/32" off centre and there is no line eater gaps.

Sal:  if that's a 99 size jigmaster magnum spool you have there I'd be willing to give you my left arm for it?

[Maxed Out]

 Finally got around to upgrading my magnum. Steel sleeve/dog, steel gears and a fresh 5 stack. I didn't care for the black spool so I located a gold one and freshened it right up.

 I still like the all black magnum Al started the thread with a little better than my beater. Thanks for sharing your build Al.