Reel Repair by Alan Tani

West got 1 cat at the lake and I got 1 rainbow at the river,,,,,,

About the same for your purposes in that all are not really acceptable. 

HDPE  is machinable. I've made large low tolerance (accuracy) parts out of it. The cutting tools have to be throwing off large chips and the feeds have to be high relative to the tool rotation speed (hint- you need specific cutters for soft plastics - Onsrud is a good source for more info, but one router bit will probably cost you the same or more than the whole metal oscillation arm from Fred) .  Mechanical  properties of HDPE are still kind off sucky for reel parts.  Delrin is cheap, readily available, and is a great plastic for machining into mechanical parts.

You could do it with a hand drill and a Swiss Army knife, but you are a better craftsman than I am if you can get something accurate enough to be a useful part.

The HDPE that I am used to is the marine stuff, like Starboard.  It seems to me to be harder than the cutting board stuff.  But even starboard is not a great choice.

-J

What's motor you use .Can you add a speed control like sewing machine ?

Quote from: pjstevko on Today at 02:55:17 AMYou don't have to trust the factory wire if you attach the assist hooks to a Ultra split ring to the solid ring on your bite leader....

PJ

I was referring to directly snap ringing a hook to the weights bottom wire loop.

Steve

Quote from: Crab Pot on May 17, 2024, 11:50:43 PM

Quote from: pjstevko on May 17, 2024, 09:57:00 PMIf you can find a through wired sinker you won't need the safety leash to the treble hook.

I'd hate to lose the fish of a lifetime by trusting the factory wire.

Be it a assist hook or treble, it's cheap insurance to leash it.

In my opinion.

Top assist hooks obviously work too!

Thanks for posting the pic Lee,

Steve

You don't have to trust the factory wire if you attach the assist hooks to a Ultra split ring to the solid ring on your bite leader....

welcome.  the cross bar and lugs are not needed, which is why they are probably missing to begin with.  the remaining screws are metric. pretty simple.  i think this is your schematic. the quadrant screw should be a TT 0010 and i have them.  the handle nut screw is either 2.5mm or 3mm.  i have both.  i doubt that a TLD 30 cross bar would work. it's possible, but the cross bar is not needed.  send a pm if you want me to mail you the screws. 

https://www.reelschematic.com/wp-content/uploads/schematics/Shimano/Triton/SHIMANO%20TRITON%20TROLLING%20SERIES%20TTS30-50-50W-80W(87-157).pdf

  I am a old school line spooler , prefer to do it by hand ,slow and steady .   I can lay wraps side by side , layer upon layer .   Yes it does take a lot of time to do , and it does build your arm muscles .     Mono line is a piece of cake to spool, lots of round diameter , it`s like reeling up the garden hose on the hose reel .

    Braided line is a different animal ,much thinner with no real round diameter .   And you can get a lot more yardage on the reel .   The animal part of braid is you don`t want to be sloppy spooling it from the start .  No piles or waves or criss crossing when spooling , that`s the start of dig ins  and waffling the line .  After watching many people spool reels i can see why there is a problem dig in and back lash with knots from hell .    So i want to take some of the human error out of the equation .  The concept..  Something that wants to level wind it`s self .

Lets see were this goes !

 

Quote from: jurelometer on May 17, 2024, 11:13:47 PMCutting board material is either low to medium density polyethylene or polypropylene.  Both are rather soft and squishy, and are actually a bit difficult to work with to make small dimensionally accurate parts,  as the material will flex and melt easily from friction during machining.

If you wanted to DIY, Delrin (or any acetal) would be a better choice.  It has very good mechanical properties and is easy to machine properly. It is widely avalable. 

A 3D printing trick that is not used enough is to 3D print fixtures for holding/indexing stock to make more accurate parts out of other materials. 

I suspect that getting the part from Fred is the more economical and ultimately satisfactory approach, but if you want to try making your own part, I understand.  I am the same way.

-J

Thanks Jurelometer.

I did a quick google search on cutting boards just now and a lot of the sites say that it's made of high density polyethylene HDPE.

Assuming some/many cutting boards are HDPE, would HDPE be any better or worst than the low- or medium density polyethylene or polypropylene that you talked about above?

I got this reel at an estate sale and it is missing some parts. Specifically, the cross bar (and screws for it), harness lugs, the handle lock screw, and one quadrant screw. 

I've got two questions - first, is this a TTS 30?  Second, can someone point me to where I can get these missing parts?  Thanks!

Quote from: pjstevko on May 17, 2024, 11:23:06 PM

Quote from: Keta on May 17, 2024, 10:08:55 PMOr just go with one or two assist hooks on top.

Thats the rigging most Captains I've fished with prefer.

They don't like trebles swinging around if the fish is hooked by the assist hooks.

Yup, for some reason the deckhands do not like large hooks in their body parts.


When I was a deckhand on Oregon charter boats I hated diving plugs due to having to remove a hook or two from my hands.  Even a smallish albacore inhaled plugs so hooking was never a issue.  A BFT will  swallow a 16-24 ounce eddy bomb.