I do two or three wraps of line around spool before tying the arbor knot.  I leave a 1/2-3/4 inch tag end from the arbor knot so that the tag-end gets wrapped around tightly against the spool when spooling the first couple feet of line.  This prevents it from slipping without tape.  Problem is if I get spooled the arbor knot may only then slip.

If there is an arbor pin (ie tld 15/30) or a hole in the spool (ie penn fathoms) I just use that.  No tape needed.

Thanks Fred,  I’ve broken some Snap on 🛠 tools,  and where I live you just put the price on “ education budget “.   Craftsman had a good name as well,    Butt time marches on.   And
  I’ve never broke the blue handle Channels that lock.   🤷‍♂️     And I didn’t know about the snap ring pliers.......... thanks for your post......

 SOLD !!!

Welcome from Hampton

I like it.

Here’s a start, haven’t decided how I’m gonna rig the giant squid yet, I’m thinking a sliding sinker and a fingernail float of some kind to give it some lift.

Ha! Just checked the 3 I have; 2 turned inward and 1 goin out! Ok, somethin else to do today.

YOU SAY GOODBYE AND I SAY HEHWOH!!!!!

How mucho for all of it ? KNOBS ,KCIT........  ebatang

A few thoughts:

1.  I believe that solid glass blanks have no cloth and the glass fibers are more or less distributed evenly, oriented mostly in the long direction of the blank.   

2.  Sanding down a solid blank to acheive a consistent taper with uniform roundness will be difficult, especially if you are taking off enough material to change the action.

3. When it comes to strength from the dimensions, the outside diameter of the blank  section is the most important factor.  Wall thickness comes second.  But the the thicker the wall, the less additional thickness helps.   IOW, going from a really thin walled blank to what we would typically  consider a medium wall thickness will have a huge impact on blank durability, but going from medium wall thickness down to solid does not add much more.  There are hoop strength formulas for all of this, but you have to choose the right one for the materials. 

4.  The point of a solid glass blank is simply cost.  Since no cloth is used, ther are no fibers encircling blank, making hoop strength weaker.  The blank construction is fundamentally weaker and much less stiff for its weight.  This is compensated  mostly by making the blank thicker (outside diameter is king see #2), and helped a little bit more by making the wall thickness 100%.  Solid construction is used because it is a cheap, not better manufacturing method.   Inferior material, but lots more of it. And because of the materials  and manufacturing methods, progressive tapers are difficult to acheive.

5.  Sanding down a solid glass blank to change the action is making the outer diameter thinner, and the blank weaker.     Combined with the difficulty of evenly reducing the dimensions by hand, the most likely outcome of significantly reforming the blank action with some sandpaper is a fundamentally weaker blank than if you bought a nice chunky tubular e-glass blank- which are often quite inexpensive as well.

Probably no harm in sanding a bit off to facilitate repainting.   And playing a bit with the taper might be a fun exercise that might end up strong enough (if you don't mind the itching- and keep that dust away from your lungs).  But it is not a way to get the best of both worlds of a durable cheap solid glass rod and a progressive taper with a thin tip.

My $0.02...

-J

Phew, that heading made me think you were leaving us! 

Nice stuff.