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#1
D.A.M. Quick / Re: Dam Quick 110 questions ab...
Last post by foakes - Today at 06:50:22 AM
Btw, sure it has been covered elsewhere but does it matter which way the two sided leather/vinyl drag washer is oriented?

If it is a vinyl/teflon drag —- it makes no difference.

If it is a leather drag, the smooth side should go upwards.

Best, Fred
#2
D.A.M. Quick / Re: Dam Quick 110 questions ab...
Last post by rcmsangab - Today at 06:40:58 AM
Quote from: foakes on Today at 04:04:06 AMHi Russ —-

JB Weld is a good fix for the loose counterweight —- as long as it is secure and the JB Weld was not over-applied as to throw off the rotor balance.  Or, you could replace the rotor (the counterweight comes with the rotor).  Gorilla glue works also.

As for the less than robust clicking noise —- easiest fix is to remove the main gear and axle, clean off any grease, then reassemble using just 2 drops of oil on the eight A/R holes on the underside of the main gear.  Also, stretch the A/R pin spring just a bit —- this will give you a more positive click every 45°.

Now, it is also possible that the A/R pin is worn down —-  but the above remedies will solve that.  If parts are desired or needed, I have those.

A 110 Microlite is a tough little lifetime powerhouse.  Well worth keeping it in good order.

Best, Fred
Thanks for the guidance Fred. Will follow steps you outlined to adress the AR issue and see how it goes. Don't think the pin is worn down too much. Thought about using something with lower visocsity but was concerned about containing it to where I wanted it plus JB Weld is what I had. Haven't noticed a wobble yet but will check when I deal with th AR. Love these Dam Quicks so much now that I've worked on a few different kinds of reels. Like how solid everything is and they somehow seem so logical. Btw, sure it has been covered elsewhere but does it matter which way the two sided leather/vinyl drag washer is oriented? Thanks again,
Russ
#3
Penn - Vintage / Re: 180 and 180/155 Frankenree...
Last post by work2fish - Today at 04:58:22 AM
Quote from: JasonGotaProblem on Today at 04:03:58 AMtake the reel apart, and put the frame spool and sideplates and caps together. so no bridge no gears etc. see what kind of freespool you get. That's the best freespool you'll get if there's no gearing issues. Put some sharpie on the spool lip And see if there's any rubs. The spot on the frame with ink on it is the spot where it's rubbing. Maximize your freespool in that configuration before moving on. Square up the frame, fix any rubs, and whatnot. Then add parts one at a time (bridge first, work your way outward) until you lose that freespool time. That's the thing to address. Then keep moving outward.

I didn't come up with this on my own but I thought it was worth sharing for one of these tuning projects. Sorry if it's off topic now.

Those are some good ideas, Jason! I will try that approach next time I work on a 180.

I've been working on 180s all afternoon and evening, swapping parts and trying different things. I'm starting to gain a real appreciation for the quick-release right side plates on the Surfmaster, Squidder and Jigmaster!

I thought that two of the 180s I had open today had crushed tension washers on the tops of the drags, but now I think that the older ones just didn't have as obvious of a curve to them.
#4
Penn - Vintage / Re: 180 and 180/155 Frankenree...
Last post by work2fish - Today at 04:49:59 AM
Well, I'm going to call the second 180 finished. I took the bridge, sleeve, and dog spring out of another 180 and put them in this one. I put it back together with the plastic spool, and it seems ok now. I get around 7 seconds of freespool (no line; just the spool), and I no longer feel any significant resistance at any point in the cranking cycle. It feels pretty smooth. Since I am new to Penn conventional I don't really know what it is supposed to feel like.

I'm looking forward to trying out the plastic spool. I will either spool it with braid or use a significant amount of braid backing for mono.
#5
Shimano Tutorials and Questions / Re: Shimano screw size?
Last post by quang tran - Today at 04:46:22 AM
most reel use M7-1.0 nut . thickness of the nut may be different
#6
General Procedures / Re: Powder Coating
Last post by jurelometer - Today at 04:43:33 AM
The kapton sheet for 3D printing beds probably has a stronger adhesive than the tape. The tape should be available from wherever you get your powder coating supplies.  There are tons of sellers on Amazon too.  They might just call it high temp tape or polyimide tape.  It is transparent, and the stuff I have has a blue tint.

It is also used to bind the transfer sheet to the part if you want to try dye sublimation.

-J
#7
D.A.M. Quick / Re: Dam Quick 110 questions ab...
Last post by foakes - Today at 04:04:06 AM
Quote from: rcmsangab on Today at 01:06:14 AMSo two questions:
1) Any harm in putting JB Weld in that gap? Realize the horse has left the barn but for my education.
2) How do you guys recommend cleaning / servicing that AR assembly? It is working fine except for maybe being somehow quieter than it should be. 

Thanks, Russ

———————————-

Hi Russ —-

JB Weld is a good fix for the loose counterweight —- as long as it is secure and the JB Weld was not over-applied as to throw off the rotor balance.  Or, you could replace the rotor (the counterweight comes with the rotor).  Gorilla glue works also.

As for the less than robust clicking noise —- easiest fix is to remove the main gear and axle, clean off any grease, then reassemble using just 2 drops of oil on the eight A/R holes on the underside of the main gear.  Also, stretch the A/R pin spring just a bit —- this will give you a more positive click every 45°.

Now, it is also possible that the A/R pin is worn down —-  but the above remedies will solve that.  If parts are desired or needed, I have those.

A 110 Microlite is a tough little lifetime powerhouse.  Well worth keeping it in good order.

Best, Fred


#8
Penn - Vintage / Re: 180 and 180/155 Frankenree...
Last post by JasonGotaProblem - Today at 04:03:58 AM
I started to write this before you realized it wasn't a freespool issue, but it's probably good advice so I'm gonna let it rip anyway.

Take the reel apart, and put the frame spool and sideplates and caps together. so no bridge no gears etc. see what kind of freespool you get. That's the best freespool you'll get if there's no gearing issues. Put some sharpie on the spool lip And see if there's any rubs. The spot on the frame with ink on it is the spot where it's rubbing. Maximize your freespool in that configuration before moving on. Square up the frame, fix any rubs, and whatnot. Then add parts one at a time (bridge first, work your way outward) until you lose that freespool time. That's the thing to address. Then keep moving outward.

I didn't come up with this on my own but I thought it was worth sharing for one of these tuning projects. Sorry if it's off topic now.
#9
Member Fishing Reports and Photos / Re: Luck
Last post by Bill B - Today at 03:42:21 AM
While in Crescent City,  northern California,  I have been wanting to try my hand at crab snaring.  A few conversations with Ed Tani and armed with snares built by Alan, 8 got out today.  I started at the southern break water of Crescent City harbor.  Approximately 3 hours after high tide.  It took about an hour to find the depth/distance the crab were in.  As soon as I found the area a short dungeness crab was snared, followed by 2 legal red rock crabs.  Another short dungeness and RR crab soon followed.  When the water depth got too shallow I tried casting farther out but the bite was gone. One legal size dungeness was lost when a swell hit the snare as I was lifting it up.  I moved to a cove and one more RR crab was caught.  I tried a couple other spots within walking distance but no more were caught. 

I headed for home in Crescent City and cooked up the 3 keeper crabs and the wife made short work of them.  She said the three RR crabs were a good meal for her. 

I used a combination of herring and squid with a cage type snare.

I had a plan and scouted the area I wanted to target and was pleased with my results.  I did see one guy pull up 50 yards away, make two casts, bag two crabs, and leave. 

Gonna do this again.  Bill
#10
General Procedures / Re: Powder Coating
Last post by jtwill98 - Today at 03:00:33 AM
Quote from: oldmanjoe on March 17, 2026, 09:21:13 PMI do not have a Cricut Machine yet .  You have peaked my interest in this Kapton tape , I am not familiar with it .  Can you provide a link ?  Yes that was the problem to get the prism lines of color .

Here's a good site (https://croylek.com/pages/kapton-tape?srsltid=AfmBOooWsMc2cRZjv4iDunr9XepaWhQFGIzomru-WawYjBqn5tKSifp6) that has some information on Kapton Polyimide Film, describing what it is and some of it's properties. I read somewhere that its oven safe. ;)

I would recommend DuPont Kapton Polyimide Film brand but I imagine there are cheaper alternatives just as good. You'll need to check the adhesive properties and ensure it has silicon adhesive.

I didn't realize this, but Amazon sells Kapton sheets for 3D printing surface covering. I'm familiar with the tape variety like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NDRY223/ref=twister_B08NDQHP8V?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

If you have some old dead battery lying around for cordless tools like a DeWalt battery, there might be some Kapton tape inside that you can use for experimentation.   

Another alternative might be this: https://tapeproviders.com/collections/high-temperature-tapes/products/wod-polyester-tape-3-5-mil-silicone-adhesive-72-yards-high-temp-resistant-for-splicing-masking-or-holding-application-pft35gs I have no experience with it but looks interesting as one of the reviews stated: "I use thus tape when powder coating stainless Steele cups and it comes off clean leaving no residue"  It too is sold on Amazon, search for "Green PET High Temperature Tape"

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