Reel Repair by Alan Tani

Quote from: oldmanjoe on March 17, 2026, 09:14:16 PMDave I am so glad you take the time to write out explanations and theories . I do agree with you 

Quote from: jtwill98 on March 17, 2026, 06:07:39 PMHave you considered using High Temperature Powder Coating Tape or Kapton tape used for masking sensitive connectors while hot air soldering of electronic components? 

I suspect simple strait lines like those you tried for the Pink Floyd  logo look on one of your reels would be a good candidate for TekLine Glass Cloth High Temperature Powder Coating Tape.

Kapton tape might also work as its is good up to 300-400 degrees Celsius. It's is inexpensive, easily cut and might work to mask off areas for a multi-stage finish (masking before a "green bake", then adding a second coat before the final cure.

You might want to experiment with a some sheet metal using some stencils or Cricut (if your wife has one) or similar device to cut the masks on the Kapton tape and apply the masks prior to powder coating.

Quote from: jurelometer on March 17, 2026, 05:32:10 PM

Quote from: JasonGotaProblem on March 17, 2026, 02:59:44 AMOk I'm talking out my spray nozzle here but I had an idea re: detail work. Why brush it on? Couldn't you dump/spray/put a ton of powder on and brush off the excess before baking? I'm usually missing something.

The joker looks cool though.

Dave I am so glad you take the time to write out explanations and theories . I do agree with you   

Yes.  I do this a bunch for making two color lures.  A damp q-tip is a nice tool. But you can't do detailed work, and it is difficult to to get every bit of the excess powder out of all the nooks and crannies, pores, etc.
Temporarily masking with painters tape during application is another option if the work is not too detailed.

A  bit more on the options:

Maybe Joe will figure out a process that works for him, but this is essentially using powder in a method that is in conflict with its fundamental properties. Powder is a coating, not a paint.

This is a bit of a simplification: Liquid urethane paint is a combination of urethane and solvents, the urethane is dissolved into the solvent, and this dissolved urethane in contact with the surface tends to get sticky right after you apply it, so you can apply the liquid paint some precision. The solvent evaporates fairly quickly, and the urethane hardens.

The powder used in coating is just the urethane paint in powder form with no solvents.  You need to have an even, fairly exact depth of the powder to stick to the part long enough  for it to melt and fuse to itself and the part when exposed t

Quote from: jurelometer on March 17, 2026, 05:32:10 PM

Quote from: JasonGotaProblem on March 17, 2026, 02:59:44 AMOk I'm talking out my spray nozzle here but I had an idea re: detail work. Why brush it on? Couldn't you dump/spray/put a ton of powder on and brush off the excess before baking? I'm usually missing something.

The joker looks cool though.

Yes.  I do this a bunch for making two color lures.  A damp q-tip is a nice tool. But you can't do detailed work, and it is difficult to to get every bit of the excess powder out of all the nooks and crannies, pores, etc.
Temporarily masking with painters tape during application is another option if the work is not too detailed.

A  bit more on the options:

Maybe Joe will figure out a process that works for him, but this is essentially using powder in a method that is in conflict with its fundamental properties. Powder is a coating, not a paint.

This is a bit of a simplification: Liquid urethane paint is a combination of urethane and solvents, the urethane is dissolved into the solvent, and this dissolved urethane in contact with the surface tends to get sticky right after you apply it, so you can apply the liquid paint some precision. The solvent evaporates fairly quickly, and the urethane hardens.

The powder used in coating is just the urethane paint in powder form with no solvents.  You need to have an even, fairly exact depth of the powder to stick to the part long enough  for it to melt and fuse to itself and the part when exposed to heat in the 350-400F range. 

This is usually achieved by attaching a negative electric charge to the part and a positive electric charge to the powder as it is released from the sprayer.  The powder sticks lightly to the part due to the residual static charge. On smaller parts like reels, you often don't have to spray multiple sides, the powder cloud will wrap around the back side of the part and coat everything. If you blow on the powder, you can dislodge it. The bond is very light before curing.

A part just sitting around can have enough static charge that a bit of loose powder might stick to it.  So the process of painting details on the part with a special wetting agent (like Columbia Powder Water) and then dusting with powder will tend to have a bit of the equivalent of overspray. A little bit of the powder can stick to other areas.

In my experiments, using the recommended method of first mixing the powder into the wetting agent gives you a less than satisfactory "paint", as the powder doesn't dissolve.  The solution is either too thin to  leave an adequate layer or too lumpy, and has a short work time. It doesn't  seem to want to stick evenly unless you are applying to a blasted surface with some tooth.

BTW-  there are additives like pearls, micas, and glow in the dark pigments that can successfully be blended with powders and applied normally. This can be fun.

-J

Dave I am so glad you like to write you explanations and theories , You are spot on .